PEntax LX 250 Bulk Film Back.jpg (17k)

Modern Classic SLRs Series :
Pentax LX - Message Board/Guestbook

Industry wide indications and ceasing film body development by Pentax altogether in early 2003 more than suggest the manual focus Pentax LX will not be having an upgrade (except, perhaps for very rare Limited Edition Models hand assembled by special commission by the new HoyaPentax Corporation). In 2008 Pentax became a division of Hoya Corporation, which had together with Pentax released jointly developed professional grade optics (since 2005); Pentax has shifted its attention to development of auto focus Digital SLRs having build qualities constructed for the long run--now with weather seals--like the LX. You may use this site for common support and sharing of mutual users knowledge or experiences among yourselves. You may also use this message board as a guestbook for the advanced users Pentax SLR cameras from the LX forward, including many such auto focus film cameras, and Pentax digital SLR cameras. We keep the site going too for the WORD SEARCH FEATURE found here as to its magnificent K mount system user archives: as have been shared here for many years. Have an inquiry related to Pentax gear? First try KEYING IN YOUR KEY WORD(S) for a preexisting archived response on your subject of inquiry from this LX site. If your inquiry or sharing is from advanced users K10D, K20D, or K200D SLR needs, proceed on to t NEW PENTAX ADVANCED USERS K10D, K20D SLR site.

This LX site was specifically created for the great Pentax LX SLR camera model(s), and now has incorporated increased opportunity for an expanded interchange with the introductions of the Pentax K10D, K20D, and K200D SLRs to include advanced and professional digital user models. Interchange is encouraged with the intention to continue as a forum for advanced system users of past K-mount film based SLR systems and the mentioned Pentax DSLRs. With decreasing forum traffic here, and enthusiasts moving on with SLR digital imaging products futures, we hope the continued convenience of this site and its past Pentax advanced LX users data archives--provided by the database KEY WORD SEARCH FEATURE found here--can be very useful to you. Most past site user techniques, systems components, and lenses of Pentax advanced applications--as have been past examined by users on this site--are still of use regarding the newest Pentax SLRs. Please don't mail us with other than constructive suggestions or to rectify mistakes found within this site, thank you. Since this is a non-profitable resource site, maintained by professional and advanced system users, the developer of this site reserves the rights to censor or delete any inappropriate, unrelated, misleading or excessively hostile messages posted herein. If your intention is to dispose of your Pentax cameras or its accompanying accessories and/or you are looking for a used model, or even for any of its system components: please use a separate section with a higher volume of related traffic for these purposes: on the
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1. From : Ian (ian@ity.co.uk)
Url : http://
Date : 10:49 AM Friday 19 December, 2003

It's old Tri-X, last three months of producion. I'm pleased to say that the new stuff (new Rochester plant) is better, nice one Kodak. Anton, your winder went to a good home. What goes around, comes around. Chill. BTW, the nasty deep marks in the grip-b? (someone though it was a grip-A for a few minutes) Took it too the body shop (car) yesterday (my brothers). 320 grit dry, 600 dry, 1500 wet, followed by G3 liquid. Bloody perfect finish. Thing looks new! Not sure what the plastic is, but it's awesome. Nice one Pentax. - Ian.


2. From : Ian (ian@ity.co.uk)
Url : http://
Date : 10:13 AM Friday 19 December, 2003

OK, test image for A35-105/3.5 is up. http://homepage.mac.com/iant1
Scans folder, Desk001.jpg. JPG no. 8, no sharpening, no nothing. Tri-X in HC-110, Kodak times. Auto flash (non dedicated), LX on Auto. I think it was f5.6. Focus was in macro. - Ian.


3. From : Anton (handmaid@fsmail.net)
Url : http://
Date : 08:28 AM Friday 19 December, 2003

I have spoken to Robin regarding testing the aperture of my re-assembled 20mm lens. He suggested I mount the lens on camera and then stop the lens down with the DOF lever/button; I should then click through all the apertures and observe the diaphragm. It should decrease/increase with each click. If, for instance I observe no movement between f22 and f16 then there is a problem. My lens behaves, as it should; I'm unable to test the 'A' settings as Mico recommends but I feel confident that the lens is okay. Aaargh! I sold my LX winder recently and was planning on selling the LX body, I had a change of heart and decided to keep the body... it didn't feel right without the winder so... I bought a winder for it, thus... I'm back where I started except... I sold the winder at a favourable price and bought the next one at a shop price so... one week later I'm out of pocket and back to square one. This behaviour is ridiculous. AB


4. From : Mico (micolx@netscape.net)
Url : http://
Date : 03:24 AM Thursday 18 December, 2003

Luka, page 27, message 261. M.


5. From : Luka (luka@postmark.net)
Url : http://
Date : 03:08 AM Thursday 18 December, 2003

Here is a question for all you LX fans. How do you buy an LX? How do you check if it is working properly?


6. From : Anton (handmaid@fsmail.net)
Url : http://
Date : 04:49 AM Monday 15 December, 2003

Thanks for the info Mico but it all sounds a bit much for me - I don't have and 'A' body and don't know how to use them. I shall drop into Harrow Technical when passing and get Robin to test it. A while ago I started considering using some kind of soft focus filter. Wandering around the web I became aware that the Zeiss Softar was considered to be the best available (if a tad expensive). Reluctant to shell out much money on something I might not like I set about trying to find images and information. It is really surprising how little there is, the only images I could find are on the Zeiss site and they are frankly, pathetic. Pictures of cracked old dolls give little real world information. Suffice to say I bit the bullet and bought a Softar II and I'm very happy with it. For those interested in seeing the effect this filter has, I have published a page on my site. The camera is an LX and the host lens the Pentax SMC-A* 85 1:1.4 www.antonbrowne.com/softarcomparison/ AB


7. From : Mico (micolx@netscape.net)
Url : http://
Date : 08:47 AM Sunday 14 December, 2003

Anton, again,there is a way to check your 20/2,8. All you need is Pentax body which has "Av" (not AT...)mode, DOF and Memory button. That can be MZ-M, MZ-5N, MZ-S... Put your lens on the body, set aperture manually at F.4.0 (smaller apertures are easier to control visualy) than press DOF. Try to memorise how it looks. Than, set lens at "A" and camera at "Av" or "P" mode. Find the light which will set aperture at F.4.0, press Memory button and than press DOF. The aperture MUST be the same as when lens was set at F.4.0 manually. If there is difference, either manual or "A", (or both),mode were not adjusted properly. Do not bother if there is some slight discrepancy, only the factory,(or the maniac who can spend a week on that) once the lens was open, can put it 100% back. But, if it is 1/2 F stop or so, that could be a problem. Hope your lens is fine and this is just a hypothetical situation. M.


8. From : Mico (micolx@netscape.net)
Url : http://
Date : 12:22 AM Sunday 14 December, 2003

Jay, I sent you this info on your e-mail, but just in case that something went wrong here is the link:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/pentaxistd/page16.asp
...and more than that, IST D compared to Fuji S2, etc.
Anton, it took me a week(...) to fix aperture on my 300*/4.5 , same problem, after Pentax`s repair masterpiece. For that I also needed camera with AT/Program mode (in this case MZ-3) to see how apertures preset by camera were working. There is two aspects - manual apertures, as on LX for instance, and ones done by the camera - AT mode or the way IST D is setting the aperture. Both aspects have separate adjusting. It is hard to say, but for the start see if your lens is wide open when set to 2.8, and if there is no too much (or not enought) space between aperture coupler and the bayonet limit point. The late means that, when aperture is set to 2.8, there should be cca. 1mm left for coupler to blank move before it touches the bayonet mount. M.


9. From : Anton (handmaid@fsmail.net)
Url : http://
Date : 06:53 PM Saturday 13 December, 2003

Update on PENTAX SMC-A 20mm 1:2.8 I received my lens yesterday. I'm unable to check that the apertures are correct (but they look it - can anyone suggest a way of checking?). The aperture ring no longer grinds and the diaphragm is snappy; I consider the lens fixed. A shame Pentax UK couldn't do it without me having to pay a visit and them having a second go but a least this time it appears they actually rectified the faults so my £90 hasn't been wasted. Anton


10. From : Jay Hart (ibcom@onebox.com)
Url : http://
Date : 12:45 PM Saturday 13 December, 2003

The Sigma DSLR color is indeed good, but watch the pseudo-claim that the model 10 has 10MP--simply the same sensor as in the model 9 with a new definition (i.e., vodoo economics, not the one the rest of the industry is using, either). The Canon with 10MP is considerably better, only depending on the size of enlargement, however. I am still awaiting Mico's test sources for the Pentax DSLR.--Jay


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Maintainers for Pentax LX Series SLR Camera Models Message Board:
Tony Davies-Patrick (Globetrotter) (globetrotterworld@hotmail.com); Mico Smiljanic (micolx@netscape.net);
Jay Hart (ibcom@onebox.com); Philip Ashman (genesisphil@hotmail.com)

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