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Modern Classic SLRs Series : |
Nikon F3 - widely regarded as one of the most reliable electronic camera of all time and it was also the longest serving Nikon F-Series SLR camera. This evergreen model remains a hot favorite among many working pro and serious amateurs As every individual photographer has his own personal style to express himself and that includes how one handles his own photographic tools, this section allows you to share your knowledge & mutual experience using the camera. Some of the opinion presented within the site was specifically my personal experience and I do not wish to influence any decision prior to any potential purchases or disposal. You may make use of this convenience here to present your own views. Enjoy.This site is specifically created for some of these great SLR bodies by Nikon, its creator. Please don't mail me other than constructive suggestions or rectifying mistakes found in this site, thanking you. Since this is a non-profitable resource site - The developer of this site reserves the rights to censor or delete any inappropriate, unrelated, misleading or excessively hostile messages posted herein. If your intention is to dispose your Nikon camera(s) or its accompanying accessories or looking for a used model or any of its system components, please use a separate section with a higher volume of traffic Free Trade Zone site instead. The Photography In Malaysia has no Guestbook on its own, because it is an integral part of the MIR site. But if you want to leave a note on your experience visiting this site, you may use the MIR's Guestbook at another new window by clicking on the Guestbook Link.
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Nikon F3 Series
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1. From : robert patzelt (r.patzelt@mchh.siemens.de)
Url : http://
Date : 02:23 AM Friday 20 July, 2001
to herman: thanks for your help. yes, the used 'A' mode switches the exposure time to 1/80 sec. i have the same problem if i use the flash without the camera. right now i am trying to restrore the capacitor in the mentioned way. TO ALL: thanks in advance for any further help.2. From : Harvey Bennett (hbb1121@aol.com)
Url : http://
Date : 11:04 PM Thursday 19 July, 2001
Please feel free to e-mail me directly on my issue: batteries for the Nikon F-3. The optimum batteries for the F-3-be specific
manufacturers and model numbers. Has anyone liked the one piece 3-volt lithium battery?
Thank you, Harvey bennett3. From : rybar (rybar@bigfoot.com)
Url : http://
Date : 10:29 PM Thursday 19 July, 2001
Is it possible for someone to mail me the F3HP manual in PDF-format?4. From : Hermann Graf (hermann.graf@basf-ag.de)
Url : http://
Date : 02:57 PM Thursday 19 July, 2001
To Robert: When the flash blinks, it is either an exposure time smaller than 1/80 s (in manual mode) or the flash is not ready, provided the contacts are ok. In "A" mode on the camera, exposure time should automatically be set at 1/80 s (check in the viewfinder) with the flash mounted. If 1/80 s is ok., then it's the flash, probably the capacitor. Sometimes it's possible to restore the capacitor (as it is recommended in the instructions) by leaving the flash switched on for several hours or even days, and firing some flashes from time to time.5. From : ScottZ (s_ziehr@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 01:33 PM Thursday 19 July, 2001
I recently purchased my first F3HP and I am trying to figure out how to outfit it. I am thinking of getting the Sunpak 555 flash system, but I was wondering how well it would mount if I choose to get the MD4. Does it mount between the camera and the MD4 or to the bottom of the MD4? Also, are there any F3 users out there located in North Central Texas that could recommend a good repair shop? The foam mirror bumpers on my camera are starting to look a little rough.
Thanks for any help.6. From : robert patzelt (r.patzelt@mchh.siemens.de)
Url : http://
Date : 05:54 AM Thursday 19 July, 2001
hello! i bought a used flash sb-17 to use it with a f3.after reading the sb-17 manual i tried to use it:
loaded the batteries, mounted the flash, set the mode to 'N/normal', set the shooting mode selector to 'TTL', set shutter speed to 'A', set film speed (flash and f3), choosed from the dial an f-stop according to the shooting distance, set the lens to the selected f-stop, switched f3 and sb-17 on... 'flash-ready' started to blink... and never stopped to blink. then i bought new batteries, tried it again, same result.
is it my fault? do i get the manual wrong? or is the sb-17 demaged? thanks in advance.7. From : Walt (Waltavion@AOL.com)
Url : http://
Date : 05:30 AM Thursday 19 July, 2001
Danilo,
You also might want to check to see if the lens is returning to full open aperture after you take a picture. I heard of this problem with a lens sticking and not opening all the way. This would make the viewfinder image dim, also.
Walt8. From : Hermann Graf (hermann.graf@basf-ag.de)
Url : http://
Date : 03:08 PM Wednesday 18 July, 2001
To Danilo: I would recommend that you have checked your camera, and the repairshop makes out a proposal of items to be repaired or replaced, and a cost estimate. Probably you will be charged with a fee for the proposal. Workshops not authorized by Nikon may be cheaper, but sometimes don't have the spare parts. Whether it is necessary to replace the LCD displays should be checked; could be a problem of batteries or contacting (at the beginning of the production of the F3, nobody could say how long the LCD would "live", and therefore, Nikon's warrant in the instructions; but their longivity turned out to be higher than expected). Lubricants are normally not necessary for the Nikons, because the titanium shutter is self-lubricating.9. From : Danilo (dwkwan@msn.com)
Url : http://
Date : 09:31 PM Tuesday 17 July, 2001
Thanks again Hermann. I have several more questions and probably more to come (as we all do as camera lovers.) One is about scheduled servicing of the camera unit like changing of seals, LCD replacement as mine seems fuzzy, lubing of parts as they call it I don't really know what this means if ever it is true, and lastly, the Beattie screen replacement.
If ever one decides to have the above done entirely or singley, how much would it cost in a reputable Nikon authorized dealership or any repair shop? I am concern they might rip me off at least I have an idea and gauge, you know so many unscrupulous people out there.
For the Beattie screen, any body have an idea how much change in light stops. ANyhow thanks for the infos and I will receive any advise.10. From : Hermann Graf (hermann.graf@basf-ag.de)PAGE | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 57 | 58 | 59 | 60 | 61 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 | 70 | 71 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 75 | 76 | 77 | 78 | 79 | 80 | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 | 87 | 88 | 89 | 90 | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 | 96 | 97 | 98 | 99 | 100 | 101 | 102 | 103 | 104 | 105 | 106 | 107 | 108 | 109 | 110 | 111 | 112 | 113 | 114 | 115 | 116 117 | 118 | 119 | 120 | 121 | 122 | 123 | 124
Url : http://
Date : 09:43 PM Monday 16 July, 2001
To Danilo: The reason why the viewfinder appears dim is either dust (prism, focusing screen, mirror, eyepiece), the mirror surface is muddy, or fungus (fiber-like structures). Unmount the prism unit and the focusing screen, and check all glass surfaces including the screen. Don't touch surfaces with fingers. Remove dust with a blower brush. If the mirror is muddy, it will probably be necessary to replace it. Cleaning trials often detoriate the matter, since the surface is very sensitive. Eyepiece lens may be cleaned with lens paper and a lens cleaning liquid. With Beatty screens, it is often necessary to correct the metering, because then, a different portion of light enters the meter.Maintainers for Nikon F3 Series SLR cameras Message Board:
Walt McKinney (Waltavion@AOL.com); Allan M Purtle (ampurtle(AT)sympatico.ca); Hermann Graf (hermann.graf@basf-ag.de), JWoods,
Gen. Holst, MCLau (mclau@pc.jaring.my) ROZ (rozkl@hotmail.com)
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