Nikkormat/Nikomat - Guestbook/Message Board

1. From : Confused (environment2003@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 07:21 AM Saturday 01 December, 2001

I have a NIkkormat body (although I'm not sure what the exact model is) and no lens. So I have 3 questions:
1. How can I figure out what model I have?
2. What kind of lens will work with the body?
3. What's the best way to get a replacement lens?

2. From : Graham (grahammv@yahoo.co.uk)
Url : http://
Date : 07:18 AM Thursday 29 November, 2001

Nik (Nov 15),

When you use the DOF preview, the meter reading changes because the lens stops down to the aperture you have set. However, this will NOT be a correct reading. If you have mounted the lens correctly - and there is plenty of advise about this elsewhere on this site - it will "tell" the body what aperture has been set via the metering claw, allowing a correct reading to be taken without stopping down. The DOF preview should only be used to predict depth of field, never when metering.

Hope this helps,

Graham

3. From : Tasos (talex@intracom.gr)
Url : http://
Date : 10:50 PM Tuesday 27 November, 2001

Hi all,
I own an FT N,and i face two problems:
First i think there is a bad contact when turning the aperture ring,so the needle trembles or stays in min position.
Second,when mounting a lens and turning the ring to the min f-stop setting,some times(in cold weather!!!)the ring stacks in
that position because the mechanism does not work properly.
Appreciate any help,suggestions or service manual to make me able to open the camera,clean the contact.If spare part needed
where must i adress to?

4. From : Buzzy (jcbuzzdavis@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 10:33 AM Monday 26 November, 2001

Hi all--

just became owner of father-in-law's Nikons--a couple of old F's, a very nice FE w/auto winder and mint Nikkomat ELW--many Nikkor lenses and filters, etc--just what I've always dreamed of (a couple of decades late)--anyway, I need a part for the EL's winder: The teeny nylon cog that drives the film advance clockwork is cracked and will not pull the load--it just whines while the motor shaft turns. The cog is easily replaced; are these available or am I obliged to buy a whole new motor-??

Any help is appreciated--e-mail me--thanks--Buzzy

5. From : Jennie Kerwood (jkerwood@nycap.rr.com)
Url : www.yahoo.com
Date : 11:54 PM Sunday 25 November, 2001

I just inherited a Nikkormat FTN chrome camera body with 50mm/2.0 lens. Our local camera store said it is in virtually new condition. I replaced the mercury battery with an Exell Z625PX Zinc Air 1.4 battery, and was told that the light meter would function correctly with it.

(I am taking a test roll with it this week to see for myself!)

It also came with a Vivitar 171 Flash and bracket. Unfortunately the flash has a built-in rechargeable battery that appears totally shot.

So here are my questions:

1. Assuming everything works, should I hold onto the camera? (I already have two Nikon N6006 cameras and four AF lenses that I love...)

2. If I decide to part with it, is there a market for it?

3. Is there anything that can be done to fix the flash? (The camera itself doesn't have a hot shoe, so if a flash is desired, it would have to be mounted via the bracket...)

6. From : Kevin Just (Cuscabguy@aol.com)
Url : http://
Date : 01:25 AM Sunday 25 November, 2001

I have a Nikomat. the number on top of the camera body isFT3531200. I think the model is an FTn. Am i correct. can anyone give me more info about this camera? I would also like to find a flash unit for it. Any help would be appreciated.

7. From : Nikos (nicha@in.gr)
Url : http://
Date : 01:02 AM Friday 23 November, 2001

David,
if the battery is a mercury one, it means that the repair guys did not actually recalibrate the meter. Recalibrating the meter in these cameras means modifying the circuit in order to be able to use 1.5 V batteries without the need for compensation.
You can use the camera with an 1.5v alcaline battery. If you are shooting negatives only, you will spot no difference at all, because the meter underexposes for 1 stop only. If you shoot slides compensate for about 1 spot.
I purchased the CHRIS adapter and made a test. the difference is one stop.
Nikos

8. From : David Powell (dptv@bigpond.com)
Url : N/A
Date : 10:02 AM Wednesday 21 November, 2001

Hi everyone, Having used a Nikkormat as a kid when part of the school photography club, I could not resist buying a Nikomat FTN at a garage sale. I quickly realised the foam, rubbery bits for the mirror and back door were perishing, so I took it to the Nikon service agent for repair. As well as fixing the foam bits up, they replaced the battery with 'the correct one' they told me, and recalibrated the light meter. Now the battery is flat, I've rung the Nikon agent and they have no stock left. It was a Varta V625PX mercury battery. I've searched the internet and now realise these are very hard to get. Does anyone out there know of a supplier of these batteries? I live in Sydney, Australia.
By the way, I also have a F3, owned new since 1980, a great camera as well, but I love the Nikomat. Thanks....David Powell.

9. From : Fran Wysocki (Fwysocki@tampabay.rr.com)
Url : http://
Date : 05:25 AM Wednesday 21 November, 2001

A very interesting and helpful site. I own the Nik.EL and I came upon your site while looking for a good camera repair shop.

10. From : Alan Clayton (radioaktiv@radioaktiv.co.uk)
Url : http://radioaktiv.co.uk
Date : 10:36 PM Monday 19 November, 2001

Buying a Nikkormat?

Facts: Nikkormats (FT, FTN, FT2) seen at UK camera fairs are quite cheap (under £100 / $170), but often quite bashed - good ones are still around but sell quickly. Jumpy meters are commonplace - don't buy. Eyepiece rings are usually missing but are still available (will fit later cameras like FA/FM2, etc). Shutters: check for visible scuffing of the blades (be wary) - should be a quiet-ish "chunk" not "Ker-Chuuunkunk" - check all speeds with the camera back open. Seals on older models are invariably gooey (but should cost no more than £20 / $40 to fix. Check absolutely everything before you buy - go with your common sense, not your heart. Mercury batteries - still available in the UK for around £4/$6.
Impressions - I've just bought a mint FTN for £50/$70 and an FT2 for £100/$140: smooth, sweet, nice. I got 38 perfectly exposed slides/chromes from an Ektachrome EBX film. "Weird" shutter ring is far easier to use than a top mounted dial. Top-mounted meter window is really useful. Metering display (you can adjust aperture very finely) is far, far better than on an FM2!!

Nikkormats look old and clunky (I managed to approach two winos (vagrants) in a park recently - they recognised the camera as old and then wanted their pictures taken. I'd probably have got a rough reception if I'd been weilding a whizz-bang, big zoom, AF monster). They're heavy beasts so limit yourself to 2 lenses to avoid dislocated shoulders. Weaknesses?: apart from the pitfalls mentioned above the main problem is that there are lots of scabby lenses around - but Non-AI lenses are quite cheap and still very good. Solid, confidence building cameras. BUY ONE!

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