1. From : Hermann Graf (hermann.graf@basf-ag.de)
Url : http://
Date : 04:09 PM Tuesday 25 September, 2001

To St. Heldfield: Nikon offers only three different types of focusing screens for the FM2: the K2 with split image, the E2 with grid pattern, and the B2 only with matte; i.e., E2 and B2 have no split image (thus no dark spot), but are not brighter. Fresnel Optics/Beattie Intensreen offer focusing screens for the FM2, made from a different material, which are claimed to be brighter. It is reported that one has to correct the metering of the camera for 0.5 to 1 fstop when using this screens because the amount of light reaching the SBC cell is different. Moreover, the Beattie screens are relatively expensive. Not the mention the fact that at low light conditions, also the Beattie screen will darken.

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2. From : St. Heldfield (witchiefields@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 03:59 PM Monday 24 September, 2001

Herman, that was a good answer but then I was wondering is that possible to replace the screen with one of the three types of the brighter (was it brighter ?) focusing screens mentioned at: http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fefmshared/html/screens.htm at least the Type B is more universal for general purpose usage. Next, why is it Nikon (or Cosina) so calculative in omitting this wonderful feature ? At least it helps Nikon to sell more accessories such as focusing screens and we could have benefited from interchangeable screens feature. Well, I hope to see a more robustly made and sensibly incorporated features FM10x upgrade in the near future.

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3. From : Hermann Graf (hermann.graf@basf-ag.de)
Url : http://
Date : 03:18 PM Monday 24 September, 2001

To Steve: It's a common problem that the split field spot in the viewfinder darkens when not enough light is available. This is especially the case with zoom lenses whose maximal aperture is smaller than that of prime lenses. The only possibilty to focus is then using the microprisms (which I find not very helpful), the matte/Fresnel part, or setting the lens by its distance scale. The problem can only be avoided by using a faster lens, i.e., a f2.0 or f1.4 instead of a f2.8 or f3.5.

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4. From : Steve Y. (syyue@home.com)
Url : http://
Date : 01:02 AM Monday 24 September, 2001

The camera I am using is Nikon FM10 which is a manual camera. It makes use of the split image spot prism for manual focusing. The image is in focus when the upper-and lower-half images align with each other when looking into the viewfinder. But the problem I have is that the center spot OCCASIONALLY looks very dark so the alignment is very hard to achieve. The overall image looking into the viewfinder is bright enough so I think the problem should be caused by the microprism responsible for the split image. Is it normal? Any comment is appreciated.

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5. From : Gen Holst (genholst@excite.co.uk)
Url : http://nil
Date : 02:08 PM Sunday 23 September, 2001

Nortbert: I know it may sound stupid, but I hope you are awared that thee is a safety lock around the rewind crank which you need to turn before you try to lift the film rewind crank upward to spring open the back: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm2/index3.htm Next, Nikon FM is one of the few Nikon models that has the BEST compatibilities among all Nikon accessories and lenses, so it can use all lenses, which including the pre-AI in stopped down metering mode. The FM3A can also mount any Nikkor lens onto it, but at the expense of metering.

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6. From : norbert (tohdolz@aol.com)
Url : http://
Date : 06:44 PM Saturday 22 September, 2001

Hello, Can anyone help me with a problem for the FM2n? When I lift the film rewind crank to open the back, it seems that the locks aren't releasing and the back just remains shut. There isn't any film in there right now, and I could still advance the film. If you have an idea with what's wrong, please respond through email. thanks so much.

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7. From : mike (atticworks@aol.com)
Url : http://
Date : 10:26 AM Saturday 22 September, 2001

I have a Nikon FM and three older lenses which I believe are the non-AI type. One is an old PC 35mm which is totally manual operation only. I wish to purchase a used body (another FM or maybe FE)or maybe a new body that will accept these old lenses as well as a newer as yet to be purchased zoom lens (probably a 28-70 or 80).

I have looked at the info on this site, but am still not sure how to determine exactly what lenses both new and old are accepted by the various FM series cameras.

Am I wrong in assumimg that other newer bodies such as the FM3a or other auto focus types such as the N-80 or 90 will not accept the old pre AI lenses, especially the ancient PC 35?

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8. From : Jack (jackowilson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://nil
Date : 11:03 AM Wednesday 19 September, 2001

Kath, when you spring open the back, does the frame counter moves ? Frankly, for peace of mind, If I were you, I would demand a refund or send the camera to Nikon to get an estimates for repair and ask to pay the bill. Anyway, not all people in the world are that honest, I bought a FM2n camera from Ebay last year and the condition was very bad and the seller refused to acknowledge that after I complaint because the picture he published was "digitally" retouched. Luckily, the camera functions quite well. So, sometimes you may realize why people preferred to buy from shops with a "good tradename" but again, prices quoted at these reputable outlets aren't cheap anymore and sometimes they are even selling at only slight discount over new prices because they claimed they have to cover refund policies, freight and insurance etc.so peole are back to Ebay and face with all the "online uncertainties"....!

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9. From : Cameroon (cameroon_2001@hotmail.com)
Url : http://no
Date : 11:16 AM Tuesday 18 September, 2001

**jasongeorge** It is a little confusing with your questions. Firstly the Nikon FM2 is a mechanical camera and there is no "switch to manual mode...". Next, I think you should always use a cable release (one with a lockable switch) when you are operating in Bulb "B" mode, you don't have to switch the shutter ring away to 1 sec to close the shutter like operating with the "T" (Time exposure mode" found in camera such as F3 or the F2. Just press the shutter via the cable release and let go once you think the adequite time is achieved. It is always good to switch offf the motor drive even when used with the camera (FM2n will still switches off 16 sec of inactivity, I am not too sure with the MD - WHY don't you try with yours ???). Lastly, it WILL NOT DEMAGE YOUR MD-12 - as it is being designed to work as one. You can turn the drive off and use your camera normally. Hope this help.

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10. From : Victor (victorioustim@hotmail.com)
Url : http://nil
Date : 11:08 AM Tuesday 18 September, 2001

RahulKapadia: This is a Nikon FM board, you must be landed in a wrong forum, here is the right MB for your camera model: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/messageboard/nikonfamsg/index.php3 and this is the website for your Nikon FA camera: http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfa/index.htm

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