Modern Classic SLRs Series : |
The Nikon FM Series is the longest serving model and the popular 35mm mechanical SLR in the market. In a series of fine camera design and manufacturing, Nikon introduced the Nikon FM dating back to 1977 which remains until today with a series of variations and updates. As every individual photographer has his own personal style to express himself visually while at the same time, maintain his own photographic equipment in a very personal manner, This section allows you to share mutual knowledge & experience among all Nikon FM series camera users. Some of the opinion presented in this site was very personal I hate to see them affecting a decision regardless it is an acceptance or rejection any of the models within the series. So, here is a section dedicated to all of you where you may also present yours. I do hope it is beneficial to all of you. Enjoy.
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1. From : rick oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 01:33 PM Friday 20 January, 2006
Hi Toby: The film itself is 35mm wide, including the sprocket holes and all that stuff. 8mm and 16mm movie film are similar, the number represents the width of the film rather than the size of the image are on the film. :)=2. From : Toby Atkins (on@request.com)
Url : http://
Date : 06:06 PM Thursday 19 January, 2006
Hi Rick, I've got a general photography question for you, I'm sorry if this is the wrong forum to be using. Why are 35mm cameras called 35mm cameras when the size of the negative is actually 36mm x 24mm? I have done some research on the web but I haven't found a satisfactory answer. Can you help? Cheers, Toby3. From : Mike Fricke (michaellfricke@gmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 12:55 PM Wednesday 18 January, 2006
I purchased the camera collection from a retiring semi-pro which included seven lenses, two camera bodies, and a bunch of filters and odds & ends. The bodies are a FM and FM2. The latter works fine, but the FM often fails to cycle. The mirror will snap up, but the shutter does not trip and it just sits there... I have to move the shutter speed dial to the "M90" position to cause the mirror to snap back down. The shutter never does open when this occurs. Any suggestions? Is it off to the camera doc or retirement? Thanks, --Mike4. From : rick oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 09:04 PM Tuesday 17 January, 2006
Hi Steve: It sounds like your camera needs a trip to the doctor. I can't think of any connection between this problem and what lens you had on it.5. From : Steve (stbongo@aol.com)
Url : http://
Date : 09:15 PM Friday 13 January, 2006
My 1980 NIKON FM trips the shutter whenever I advance the film. It used to be only when I switched to a VIVITAR zoom lens, but now it's always....even with my NIKOR lens. What's up?6. From : rick oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-123.html
Date : 01:04 AM Wednesday 11 January, 2006
Hi Teus: I was hoping that you would find a bit of dirt or something that you could just remove; if there is something missing or the stop is out of adjustment, this will be a tricky job to get just right, and best left to a repair service if you can get to one. If you have no choice but to fix it yourself, you will need to have a precise way to check focus, both in the finder and at the film plane. The easiest way to do this is to use another camera as a collimator.... the basic setup is shown here:
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-123.html
First you will want to verify that your lens is correct to the film plane at infinity (I'm sure it probably is, but you need to check it). Once you know that, you use the above described setup to check the infinity focus in your viewfinder after each adjustment you make. What is critical is that the focus in the finder exactly matches the focus at the film plane. I don't have my FM2 with me at the moment and I don't recall off the top of my head whether there are better ways to adjust this than to add or remove shims..... I'll try to take a look at it later. rick :)=7. From : rick oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 12:56 AM Wednesday 11 January, 2006
Hi Rodrigo: Those flashes will work on the FM2, but you will be paying for functions that you cannot use. The FM2 does not support TTL flash, and its shutter is mechanical so you have to set the synch speed (or the other speed of your choice) manually. The second contact in the shoe does nothing but signal a flash-ready light in your viewfinder, so you can save money by looking for a more basic, non-dedicated flash. Second-curtain synch is not a function of the flash, it's the switching circuitry in the camera body; and the FM2 doesn't have it.8. From : Rodrigo Dracxler (tiranusdj@gmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 10:53 PM Monday 09 January, 2006
Hi! i´m from brazil and i have a fantastic nikon FM2 that i love very much. it´s an excelent camera, but i´m having some problems on finding information about flashphotografy. as you know, tha fm-2 has 2 contacts on the hot-shoe conection, but i don´t know what is the original flash designed for the fm-2. you think it´s possible to use a modern flash unit like the sb-600 or the sb-800? is there any flash that has a rear sinc curtin sinc for the fm2?
thankyou very much!9. From : Teus#target (teus@madshrimps.be)
Url : http://pbase.com/teus
Date : 02:15 AM Monday 09 January, 2006
Hey Rick, thanks for the great info. I just checked my FM, and the FM of a mate (we both got em from our dads, hehe). On the bottom of the mirror, there's a rubber. Where the mirror makes contact with that piece, there is the rubber *gone*. On my FM, there's only a spot, but on my mate's FM, the spot is quite large I put my lens on the shortest distance (55cm), so the focus wouldn't change when I was working with it. I put two sticks in front of it, and moved the camera till the nearest one was sharp. I took a sheet of printing paper and put 5 pieces of paper between the notch. wow, the 2nd stick, the one most far away, was sharp!
I removed the paper and the nearest one was sharp again. Problem found, most likely. Now what, I've got to glue something on the blank spot to compensate for the rubber? guess so, it's going to be tricky to find a suited material to replace it, and compensate for the extra layer of glue between both Thanks a lot! Teus10. From : Holly (hollyrosewood@hotmail.com)PAGE | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 57 | 58 | 59 | 60 | 61 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 | 70 | 71 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 75 | 76 | 77 | 78 | 79 | 80 | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 | 87 | 88 | 89 | 90 | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 | 96 | 97 | 98 | 99 | 100 | 101 | 102 | 103 | 104 | 105 | 106 | 107 | 108 | 109 | 110 | 111 | 112 | 113 | 114 | 115 | 116 | 117 | 118 | 119 | 120 | 121 | 122
Url : http://
Date : 11:16 PM Saturday 07 January, 2006
I'm new to digital photography and I've just bought a secondhand Nikon D100 without a lens. I shoot mainly bands and live shows but also some outdoor portraits. Can anybody give me advice about which lens to buy????
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