1. From : rick oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 12:35 AM Wednesday 24 May, 2006

Hi Bill: The FM2N has no real vices that I know of, it's very durable and reliable and it handles nicely. It is not compatible with any Non-AI lenses ... unless the lens has been "AI'ed", don't even attempt to mount it as in some cases you can damage the AI coupling ring on the body. Nearly all Non-AI Nikkors can be converted to make them usable on the FM2N... typical rates I have seen are between $25 and $50 per lens. About half of the lenses that I use on my FM2N are converted Non-AI lenses.

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2. From : rick oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 12:30 AM Wednesday 24 May, 2006

Hi Darron: Yes, keep the guide rails clean .... not sure why there would be an accumulation of residue on them, I don't recall encountering that and the FM3A is newer than anything I ever use....

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3. From : Jonathan Hacker (jlhacker452@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 07:55 PM Tuesday 23 May, 2006

Have a Nikon FM2 with a Series E zoom lens 75-150 f 3.5. I have never had a problem with the lens. Allowed someone e to use the camera and lens and they report that if the camera is turned upward or downward, the zoom function will drop in either direction. Is this a problem with the lens or is it operating as designed?
Thanks!
Jonathan Hacker

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4. From : Bill Smith (burns8691@yahoo.ca)
Url : http://funwithcameras.blogspot.com
Date : 05:00 AM Thursday 18 May, 2006

Hi everyone, I am doing some due dilligence on the Nikon FM2(n)as a possible purchase. Are there any issues I should look for when shopping for this body. I am also going to buy a small 3 lens kit for this camera a wideangle ( a 28 or 35) , a 50 f2 and a 105 telephoto and maybe one zoom. I have a lot of pre AI gear so I am aware of the restrictions on compatablity of lenses. Bill Smith

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5. From : Darron Fenton (darron.fenton@ozemail.com.au)
Url : http://
Date : 07:14 PM Monday 15 May, 2006

Hi I have an FM3A. I noticed an accumulation of residue on the top film guide rails. Is this normal? Should I remove it? I used a cloth to remove it (being careful not to go near the shutter curtain) Thanks for any help Darron Fenton

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6. From : rick (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 09:47 AM Wednesday 10 May, 2006

Hi Mark: It sounds like you have a "Non-AI" lens. Lenses made before 1977 coupled to the meter by means of the fork on the aperture ring engaging a pin that extended forward from the camera body in the Nikon F and early F2, and Nikkormat cameras. The FM and later models do not have this pin; instead they have a ring around the lens mount with a tab that engages a step on the back of the aperture ring. The Non-AI lenses don't have the step, so there is no way for the lens to communicate aperture information to the meter.

Non-AI lenses can, in most cases, be modified to make them work with the FM; but you might find that it is more cost effective to sell the lens and buy an AI version instead. You can find an explanation of the different Nikon lens mount variations here:

http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-153.html

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7. From : mark (marksclone@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 01:34 AM Wednesday 10 May, 2006

I bought a 135mm telephoto nikkor lense that doesnt seem to allow me to meter - i select the desired appeture, and adjust with the shutter speed. but then i change the appeture and nothing happens to the meter... i revert back to the original appeture, and adjust with the shutter, and it meters fine. my problem is that changing the appeture doesnt give me a correct meter reading... it is just this lense that does this - y does this happen? how do i get around it, as the shutter metering will always be based on the f2.8 appeture, regardless of my closing down.

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8. From : rick (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 12:48 AM Monday 08 May, 2006

Almost any flash unit is suitable for a Nikon FM. All you need is a standard ISO style mounting foot and either a standard hot shoe contact or a PC connecting cord.

Many flash units have, in addition, "dedicated" contacts in the foot to provide extra features such as a ready light in the viewfinder, automatic shutter speed selection or TTL (through-the-lens) flash exposure control. The FM does not provide any of these functions, but you should still be able to use these units with no problems as long as you have the flash set for "normal" non-dedicated auto or manual operation.

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9. From : Kum Fatt (ngkf72@gmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 05:03 PM Sunday 07 May, 2006

Hi Wondering If anyone can tell me what Flash unit is suitable for Nikon FM? Thanks and Regards Kum Fatt

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10. From : rick (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 02:58 AM Sunday 07 May, 2006

Hi Toby:

Set the ISO dial to 125. The numbers only appear for 100-200-400 etc, but in between each pair of numbers there are 2 intermediate positions. The two between 100 and 200 represent 125 and 160. Setting it to 100 is fine too, it's so close you'll probably not be able to tell any difference between the two.

You can use the orange filter if you like; it will definitely darken the sky and emphasize clouds, sort of like the effect you get with a polarizer with color film. Filters are not necessary for good photographs, though.

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