Modern Classic SLRs Series : |
The Nikon FM Series is the longest serving model and the popular 35mm mechanical SLR in the market. In a series of fine camera design and manufacturing, Nikon introduced the Nikon FM dating back to 1977 which remains until today with a series of variations and updates. As every individual photographer has his own personal style to express himself visually while at the same time, maintain his own photographic equipment in a very personal manner, This section allows you to share mutual knowledge & experience among all Nikon FM series camera users. Some of the opinion presented in this site was very personal I hate to see them affecting a decision regardless it is an acceptance or rejection any of the models within the series. So, here is a section dedicated to all of you where you may also present yours. I do hope it is beneficial to all of you. Enjoy.
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1. From : Michael (aniceplaceonthelake@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 05:26 AM Monday 06 October, 2003
I just purchased an MD-12 from someone on ebay. He SWEARS it works but I cannot seem to get it to work on my nikon FM (ser # below 3,000,000) I have fresh batteries in it and the contacts are clean. The power light does not come on and it will not advance the film. I have the shutter switch on the camera body set to the red line aligning with the line on the camera body. He swears it works and wants me to ship it back to him (3,000 miles) I really need some help. I have read the previous pages and found nothing that helps.2. From : Mark Groves (mlgroves@copper.net)
Url : http://
Date : 05:53 AM Saturday 04 October, 2003
I am considering the purchase of a Nikon FM (body only), and would appreciate recommendations on lenses for outdoor use (airshows, sporting events, etc...), as well as indoor portraiture. Thank you
3. From : Phil Kirkey (kirkeywalt_23@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 11:47 AM Thursday 02 October, 2003
LISA: Sounds resonable with USD130-00. Important is to check the shutter - any deformation. Other than that, most experienced servicemen should be able to repair/maintain a FM2n. This is a good solid camera for learning from basic. The important thing is to spare all you can to invest into a good lense. I would suggest start from two prime of a Nikkor MF 28mm f/2.8Ai and a Nikkor 135mm f/2.8 (just be patience, you can look for bargain). Both don't bust your budget but extremely useful and practical. Good luck.
# David: The missing film rewind crank can buy from Nikon directly. It is not an expensive accessory but you will need a good servicemen to mount it securely. So, why don't take the chance to give your camera a CLA at one go ?4. From : lisa (lisa@disinfo.net)
Url : http://
Date : 01:21 PM Tuesday 30 September, 2003
i'm considering to buy a used nikon fm2n black body sans lens. it's being offered for 130 dollars. tell me, is that a decent price for this camera? i don't want to spend too much. also, i'm a beginner. i'll need this for a photography class i'm going to take soon. is this too good a camera to start with as a beginner? for example, you don't want to give a beginning guitar player a les paul or stratocaster. it would spoil them and the will not make them learn as much. then again, i would like a camera that i could grow with and don't want to buy a crap camera that i could be done with or break during or after my beginning studies. another consideration: i'm a student and i'm cheap. are there any other cameras that you could recommend that would be under 180, 150 dollars(remember, i would have to pay another 50 at least for lens, etc. or should i grab this camera at this price?5. From : David (wastejunk@att.net)
Url : http://
Date : 02:45 AM Tuesday 30 September, 2003
Can anyone point me in the right direction to find a missing rewind crank on my FM2n??? Nobody seems to have that part! Thanks!6. From : Sam Kerling (samkerling56@mailcity.com)
Url : http://
Date : 05:24 PM Monday 29 September, 2003
Pieter van Slooten: It is perfectly normal to hear the difference between a electromagetic shutter and mechanical one. Strangely, the difference is minute in my FM3A between te electronic and battery free mechanical operation. But I do owned both a FE and FM2n and the difference is more obvious.7. From : Lars (lhhansenNOSPAM@zi.ku.dk)
Url : http://
Date : 04:41 AM Monday 29 September, 2003
Korani - you simply need to short the two contacts for the shutter to fire. Re. the shutter lag; in the MD-12 repair manual it says aprox. 205 ms.
8. From : Pieter van Slooten (pietervs@solcon.nl)
Url : http://
Date : 05:16 PM Friday 26 September, 2003
Is it normal that there is a difference in smoothnes when turning the shutter speed dial between the FE and the FM? I just bought a mint FM but I find the shutter speed dial not going as smooth as with my FE. Is this because the FM is all mechanical? Regards, Pieter van Slooten9. From : Korani (fluidrome@yahoo.co.kr)
Url : http://
Date : 10:39 PM Thursday 25 September, 2003
I'm a FM3a user and have two questions about MD-12. 1. What's the connection of the pins in the remote control socket? Two of them(2 or 3) are probably for trigger. What type of trigger signal is available for them? It's just a switching or pulse of voltage? 2. I can't find any information about the shutter lag(the time between the trigger signal and shutter release). How long? Please help me...10. From : JWoods (centurywoods@yahoo.com)PAGE | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 57 | 58 | 59 | 60 | 61 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 70 | 71 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 75 | 76 | 77 | 78 | 79 | 80 | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 | 87 | 88 | 89 | 90 | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 | 96 | 97 | 98 | 99 | 100 | 101 | 102 | 103 | 104 | 105 | 106 | 107 | 108 | 109 | 110 | 111 | 112 | 113 | 114 | 115 | 116 | 117 | 118 | 119 | 120 | 121 | 122
Url : http://
Date : 01:25 PM Wednesday 24 September, 2003
Cindy: MOST likely your lense has been set to its minimum aperture (at f/22/ f/32 etc.) there will be very little light can penetrating the lens diaphragm into the camera. A simple test id just to select an aperture bright enough e.g. f/4.5 (if you have a entry level-zoom lens), 3.5, 2.8.. or larger value on the lense should reduce the shutter timing. (I would assume your lense could be locked in the minimum aperture when used previously with an AF camera, if that is the case, simply unlock the aperture from its minimum setting See the LAST/BOTTOM picture at this page: http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm3a/manual/htmls/map.htm). IF what I pointed is correct, I do think you will need to understand some basic relating to photography on combinations of shutter speed, aperture, exposure and depth of field, if you have some time, go through these pages to get a rough idea what are all these terms about: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/fototech/apershutter/index.htm
#TERESA: Yours is a Nikon FM.
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