1. From : Moriëntas (citasmx@hotmail.com)
Url : http://no
Date : 03:13 PM Sunday 19 August, 2001

FM3a is too expensive for me (list price converted at around USD700-00 in my country). The question is, is it the model that will replaced the long time classic FM2n body ? Actually, I don't really mind the FM2, as long as it is cheap. The FM10 is cheap but feels very fragile, unfortunately, it is the only Nikon SLR camera model that still remains at that price range now, what a pity.

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2. From : GenHolst (genholst@excite.co.uk)
Url : http://nil
Date : 01:51 PM Saturday 18 August, 2001

Leonard, looks like the FM3A has finally hit the street. I compared the picture of your chrome "oriental" version and found no difference with the black one that I checked. Yes, I agreed with you, it resembles strongly with the old FE2.. Now, will there be a review on this model soon in this site just as you and Mr MCLau did with the Y2K FM2n? I hope so.

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3. From : TJeff (timmie1973@yahoo.com)
Url : http://none
Date : 11:34 AM Friday 17 August, 2001

Simon: I said" ....unless you are working at extreme close focus distance or combining that with a large aperture...". At f/1.8 and closing in to your subject will require you to position yourself or ensure the subject that you are aiming at parallel to the film plane to "gain" more DOF. Take a note, all modern cameras are using open aperture metering (meaning they calculate metering based on the full aperture even of you are setting the aperture to f/8.0 or f/16); so the blur image is not an exact interpretation of the actual picture aperture which has different amount of DOF. Technically, stopped down metering should be more accurate, but none of the modern lenses/camera practice this this now unless you are using older lenses with some camera that still provides this capabillity. The things that I tried to explained was IF you are stopping down an AI lens to meter, you probably may be getting a wrong exposure reading and your viewfinder will also be "dim" and "unsharp" as you described, but again, that has nothing to do with the image quality because it is all confined to visual withn the pentaprism.

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4. From : Simon Sirca (sirca@mitlns.mit.edu)
Url : http://
Date : 06:34 AM Friday 17 August, 2001

Let me come back to the depth-of-field problem with the FM2 re the mirror
mechanism misalignment. I can not agree with you guys: when shooting an
object 2-3 m away with 105mm at f1.8, the depth-of-field is merely 3 cm,
not "a few inches". If the camera is properly adjusted, the picture will come
out crystal sharp, anything else will be out-of-focus. E.g. in a portrait, the
ears instead of the eyes will come out sharp.

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5. From : Joël (winterburns_88@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 01:34 PM Thursday 16 August, 2001

The MD-12 is very expensive but I like to have a motor drive for my FM camera. I was offered a unbranded power winder by a local camera outlet here in Mexico city and was told it has "sold to more than a million users worldwide", does anyone has one of these winder and how reliable is it ? Thanks.

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6. From : Cheryl H (learntouse@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 01:18 PM Thursday 16 August, 2001

My dad bought me a FM2n and a zoom lens for school assignments. I like the simplicity of the meter where the first few days at school, I was told to lit the green dot by varying the shutter speed and the lens aperture. I was, later taught by my dad something more concerning their respective effect that it can be achieved in a photograph and I am truly enjoying what I am doing now. The depth of field and aperture section in this site is of great help and inspiring for me to understand more how to make good use of them. Frankly, I am more incline to use my camera than my dad's bulky autofocus camera, that was very confusing to use (but I know one day, he will pass it on to me). This is a great place for beginners like me, and thank you for all the input here at this forum.

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7. From : sean (williesean_68@mac.com)
Url : http://not yet
Date : 12:43 AM Wednesday 15 August, 2001

Yeap, I agreed. Usually, we often get too overwhelmed with these kind of worries - I have through that path too. Don't worry, Simon. that is not a problems.

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8. From : Tim Jefferson (timmie1973@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 11:17 PM Tuesday 14 August, 2001

*Simon*, don't worry too much of what you are seeing inside tour viewfinder because that is a visual reference. Even if you are using with a short telephoto lens, unless you are working at extreme close focus distance or combining that with a large aperture; usually any minor focusing error would be well covered by depth of field which may range from inches to a foot or two. At distance object, if you are focusing is beyond 40', set the lens at infinity and minus, that is all and why bother with focus and aligning the split image rangefinder ? Those were our ways of handling such photographic situations. If you are using wideangle lens, huh... just use the DOF scale - you don't even need to focus at all.

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9. From : Simon Sirca (sirca@mitlns.mit.edu)
Url : http://
Date : 09:06 PM Saturday 11 August, 2001

Hi, I have a Nikon FM2 body, Nikon 28-85mm/f3.5-4.5, and Nikon 100mm/f1.8 lens. With both lens, looking at an infinitely distant object and setting the lens to infinity does not result in aligned halves of the split-image view-finder. I heard that this is due to an improper adjustment of the camera (or the mirror mechanism) itself. Is this true? I observe that the pictures I get (even at non-infinity) are focused, but not crystal-sharp, and I am afraid that this is because of some kind of imprecise calibration I have within the camera. In particular with the 100mm lens at f1.8, the real focus one gets and the focus one thinks one gets from the view-finder, should be exactly the same.

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10. From : Joe (tayjosep@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 08:46 PM Saturday 11 August, 2001

Unscrew the eyepiece for the FM. Put the eyepiece into the DK-3 and screw the eyepiece back in. That's all to it.

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