1. From : Gen Holst (genholst@excite.co.uk)
Url : http://not yet
Date : 11:08 AM Thursday 26 July, 2001

** Cheryl Fan ** Your question of "...Does the FM2 in black have a higher resale price than the silver FM2 ? was answered once by someone at this board, but just like the trend of miniskirt or colours of lipstick...... , these things fluctuates at periodic cycles or intervals. Mot people think black has a more solid look and the black stealths better than a eye catching shinning metal camera body (well, it is not a sin to imagine he/she is a photo-journalists on assignment). But there was a shift in interest again a few years ago - manufacturers reinvented a titanium finishes and leads people to believe all those shiny metal finishing are meal inside, for a while the preferences on chrome body is back. Overall, black body camera has a slightly higher re-sale value, at least - it fetches higher premium when you bought it at brand new. Peace.

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2. From : Marian (imalitlkrz@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 07:29 AM Wednesday 25 July, 2001

Does anyone happen to know the value of the Nikon FM camera with a Zoom-Nikkor 43~86mm 1:35 lens? I am not familar with manual cameras and I'm looking to sell or trade this camera for an automatic one.

Thanks!

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3. From : Cheryl Fan (sphinx_07@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 10:05 PM Wednesday 18 July, 2001

Just like to ask: Does the FM2 in black have a higher resale price than the silver FM2? Or is it the other way?

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4. From : Hermann Graf (hermann.graf@basf-ag.de)
Url : http://
Date : 04:12 PM Monday 16 July, 2001

To NichW: You cannot leave the shutter open (i.e., "B" mode) when taking shots with flashlight, except in complete darkness. The light of the surroundings may lead to overexposure. Therefore, you have to use exposure times of 1/250 s or longer, but not this long. The exposure time determines how bright/dark the background comes in the pics, and the duration of the flashlight (in "A" mode) controls the brightness of the objects within its range. Note that for A mode, you have to select an aperture given by the flash (mostly 2 or 3 possibilties, depending on the type of flash). To get an idea which exposure time to select, set the aperture needed for the flash and meter the background. If you want the background to come darker than it is, choose an exposure time shorter than the metered one, and vice versa.

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5. From : NickW (nickwilhelm2001@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 11:53 AM Saturday 14 July, 2001

I understand roungly what that earlier posting means, I used to leave the shutter open with my FM and shoot flash at auto, but most of the time, I get very good exposure with sunset at the background, but excessively over-exposure with my girl friend at the center. I tried to reduce the flash by using a diffuser but often get diffferent results. Does it means I have adjust the shutter speed to low ? thanks in advance.

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6. From : Jwoods (centurywoods@yahoo.com)
Url : http://none yet
Date : 04:46 PM Thursday 12 July, 2001

Most flash have flash duration of 1/8000th to 1/20,000th of a second. This is good for freezing any action. In syncro-sunlight photography, higher sync speed of 1/250 sec is useful as the ambient light may register any "ghost" image after the flash is burst. At night time, just imagine 1/250 sec that you are using minus 1/10,000th of a second, the remaining time after the "deduction" is to absorb ambient light. So, if you want to register more information around a flash picture, you should "slow" down the shutter speed to let the film take in more light. To get a good balance between flash illuminated subject while at the same time, getting a natural feel of surrounding atmosphere require a little practice. Modern Automatic SLR camera has made such calculation automatic and almost flawless (provided the distance is within flash working range) because the metering is measured off the film plane after the second curtain is opened during a flash exposure; while the principle stays the same, they have very fancy names like balance fill flash etc... with a mechanical FM2n, there is no such feature available and you need not rush out to buy a SB-26 or a SB-28 etc. because you have to do it manually. It is a learning curve for any photographer to go through it, but once master them, you can use them freely with or without technology or even any camera brand, regardless a high tech EOS-1v, a F5x in the future, a Russian Kiev or a chinese made Seagull. Cheers !

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7. From : Hermann Graf (hermann.graf@basf-ag.de)
Url : http://
Date : 02:55 PM Wednesday 11 July, 2001

To John McEvoy: Since the FM2n is a manual camera, nothing is reported to the flash except exposure time smaller than 1/250 s (lamp blinks for warning) and flash readiness. In automatic mode, exposure is controlled by the duration of the flashlight, which needs a special aperture to be set on the camera (to be read on the calculator wheel on the flash). Exposure time set on the camera, as long as it is >= 1/250 s, only controls the brightness/darkness of the background which is outside the range of the flashlight. TTL is not possible with the FM2n.

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8. From : John McEvoy (jmcevoy@vari-lite.eu.com)
Url : http://
Date : 09:21 PM Tuesday 10 July, 2001

I have a question regarding Flash Photography with an FM2n.

I rarely use a flash, and had always assumed that the Shutter Speed had to be set to 1/250 Sec (marked in red on the dial); however, on closed inspection of this site I see that it can be set to 1/250 Sec., or SLOWER.

I have borrowed a friend's Metz 45-CT1 Flash, and have taken some successful pictures with it with the Shutter Speed set to 1/250 Sec. If however I change the speed to something slower, 1/125 Sec. for example, will the flash be able to tell that the Shutter will be open for twice the duration, and only allow the correct amount of light to be emitted?

Also, will using a slower Shutter Speed mean that I have to alter the Aperture accordingly, or again will the Flash be able to make the necessary adjustments?

I'm sorry if this seems like an obvious question, but I am a little confused, and any help would be appreciated.

Many thanks in advance,

John McEvoy

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9. From : Phil Waster (phillie2001@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 08:55 PM Monday 09 July, 2001

The film transport of the FM2n is a big improvement over the FT3; But I like the Nikkormat's external metering window at the top of the camera body (Not so much with the DOF button of the FT3, the FM2n is much convenient); the frame counter of the Nikkormat is just fabulous and I have been wondering why it was not copied to the FM2n.

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10. From : Terence walls (terriemuddy@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 05:33 PM Monday 09 July, 2001

Mr. Gen Holst, to supplement your excellent explanation; the FT-3 provides proper metering for both AI and NON-AI lenses in either open aperture metering and stopped down metering for older nikkor optic; the FM2n will only meters correctly with lenses which has a minimum specifications of AI.

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