1. From : jasongeorge (jgeorge2001@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 04:39 AM Tuesday 18 September, 2001

I was happy to find info on the MD12 motor drive for the Nikon FM2 , as I own both of these parts. I am however, a little disappointed in it. Does anyone know if you can:
1.switch to manual mode with the motor drive unit attached? ( and operate it as normal)
2.) switch to B (bulb) setting with the motor drive on and close the shutter in any other way than having to turn the shutter speed control back to one second? This causes the camera to move, which is not good!
3.) does it go into battery saving mode if you forget to turn it off at the switch?
4.) Does operating the camera manually with the motor drive attached cause any damage to the motor drive?

if anyone has any info on these questions I would be very happy to hear about it.

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2. From : Rahul Kapadia (rahul.kapadia@knightfrankindia.com)
Url : http://www.telephoneNo.com
Date : 01:47 AM Tuesday 18 September, 2001

Hi,
I have an FA and would like to know if any of you have a good experience in servicing your Nikon bodies as well as lenses. If so, could you email me details of such service centres in India.
Thanks
Rahul

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3. From : Kate S (katestormo@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 01:10 AM Tuesday 18 September, 2001

Please help!

I just got a used FM10 at eBay and I'm already having some difficulties. When I load the film, the shutter release button and the film advance work fine as long as the back is open. However, when I close the back, the shutter release button stops working (it won't depress)and I can't take any pictures. If anyone knows how I can remedy this, please write. Thanks!
-Kate

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4. From : Hermann Graf (hermann.graf@basf-ag.de)
Url : http://
Date : 05:23 PM Monday 17 September, 2001

To Casey: A had a quick look at the new FM3A in a photo shop, and here are my impressions: it is a remake of the old FE2, with some additional features (mechanical backup of all exposure times in manual mode, exposure correction button for flash, exposure correction separated from film sensivity ring, etc.). Metering is displayed by a needle; no idea whether it is as sensitive as the one in the FE2 (LEDs or LCDs would have been better). As a whole, the camera feels a little bit "plasticky", compared with the FM2n. Therefore, if the FE2 is not your choice, the FM3A would not be it either.

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5. From : Lars (LHHansen@zi.ku.dk)
Url : http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen
Date : 10:42 AM Monday 17 September, 2001

Here is a good place for you to look for some repair shops that published their services on the Net (I cannot guarantee their quality of service but it is a listing for you to refer, just in case you need such sewrvices): http://www.nikonlinks.com/unklbil/repair.htm

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6. From : Casey (catiecasey2003@excite.com)
Url : http://no
Date : 08:34 PM Thursday 13 September, 2001

I have an old Nikon FM and my father left me with an electronic FE2 a few years ago where I am not too good in using either one of them. Do you think is it a good idea to trade in for a new FM3A ? My son needs a camera for his assignment, and the shop assstant has been keep calling to pursuade me to do so and he recommends me that new camera. Please use the board to reply, by the way - a note of thanks, this is a very good website, it is easy to undeerstand and very informative, I just thought of letting whoever that has created it to know it.

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7. From : JWoods (centurywoods@yahoo.com)
Url : http://not yet
Date : 06:36 PM Monday 10 September, 2001

I thought that phenomenon was "normal" when you had the shutter release button on the MDrive depressed all the time (well, you have explained quite well that you are using the MD-11 in single frame advance mode which has actually complicated the entire issue - as MD-11 will only advance the film after you have release the finger from the button). Well, I had once too with similar experience with my older FM with the MD-12 attached; later I found out it was the contact pins of the MD drive was "short" in contact with the base plate. Try checking that once again and tell us what you have found out later.

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8. From : Robert C. Hamilton (md11pilot4ual@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 04:38 AM Monday 10 September, 2001

I borrowed an older (but AI'd) Vivitar 70-210 f4.5 lens that I recently used on vacation. Upon putting it on my FM body, I noted that, when winding the film, the shutter curtain and mirror mechanism operated when I wound the film advance. Even when using the MD11 on single frame mode, the drive continuously fired the shutter. The only way I could even use the lens was to take a single image, remove it from the body, advance the film and then replace the lens. Has anybody encountered anything similar? Any explanations? Thanks.

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9. From : nelson (nailsNpins@excite.com)
Url : http://
Date : 12:07 PM Saturday 08 September, 2001

**Pang**: Mr. Hermann Graf has suggested a zoom which is almost a equaltional trend when buying a new lens for a SLR camera now. Well, if you have a little time and financial resources to spare, try an entry with prime lenses. I would suggest a used 28mm f/2.8, a 55mm f/2.8 micro-nikkor and a 105mm f2.5 or a 135mm f/2.8 to begin with. Fixed focal length lenses are very much different from operating with zoom lenses, espcially when used with an entirely mechanical slr camera body such as your FM2. You would pick up MORE tricks and LEARN FASTER relating to picture angle and visualization of perpective.

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10. From : NT Samuel (samvietoty@yahoo.com)
Url : http://nil
Date : 12:02 PM Thursday 06 September, 2001

JM, I think you are write in to Nikon and ask for a ENglish manual for free. Most photographic item within a three months period after purchase comes with that kind of support. You have a strong case but then I think you have to return the Japanese version in exchange for that. Try calling the toll free line OR are you a US resident ?

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