Discussion Forum for various Lenses of different major labels in a shared environment at Photography In Malaysia

1. From : job (jobster@planet.nl)
Url : http://
Date : 02:27 AM Sunday 13 April, 2003

I have a 50mm/1.4 Nikon Nikkor-s, serial 1098730, non-Ai. I have the possibility to buy a conversion-kit however, the seller mentions that only serials from 2797021 onwards can be converted, according to documentation . Does anyone know exactly? My lens is in Ex+ condition and hate to have it lying around unused.

2. From : joe (tommy009er@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 02:12 AM Saturday 12 April, 2003

i just came into a vivitar 200mm f/3.5 for a nikon AI mount i was just wondering if anyone has heard anything goog or bad about it if someone could email me back wiht any info that would be great

3. From : Ken D (kdurling@earthlink.net)
Url : http://
Date : 10:42 PM Friday 11 April, 2003

Karl - Understand from a clarifying e-mail that you are asking about "close-up filters" or diopters which screw onto the front of a normal lens. As to compatability, as far as I know all you need to be concerned with is filter thread size. Magnification is another variable, and different manufacturers have different ways of indicacting diopter strength. To be honest I always have to look them up. I don't use them much except on my digital. On my FD cameras I use a few of the excellent "macro lenses" - short telephotos with a close focusing helix and a flatfield design - that Rick was mentioning almost exclusively.

4. From : rick oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 08:28 PM Friday 11 April, 2003

Hi Karl: I would recommend either the 50mm f/3.5 or the 100mm f/4 Canon macro lens (hit the "canon FD lenses" link above for more information on these lenses). The 50mm can be found used for $125-150 or so; the 100mm will probably cost a bit more but may be more convenient as it allows a little more space between you and your tiny little subject. I personally use a 50mm macro lens and add a good 2x teleconverter when I want a little more reach. You can also get fairly close using diopter close-up lenses that screw into the front of your normal lens like filters; they are cheaper and easy to use, but a proper macro lens will give better quality results. Likewise, a "macro zoom" lens can provide close focus but don't expect it to match a macro lens' quality. There is also a Phoenix 100mm macro lens now available new for $100.... this will probably give results approaching (but not equaling) those of the canon macro lenses, but it's not as ruggedly constructed. rick :)=

5. From : Render, Karl (karl.render@hp.com)
Url : http://
Date : 07:17 PM Friday 11 April, 2003

Question about Close-Up Lenses available for CANON-FD: Dear All, some may consider it as stupid, but last year I found my ideal F1N, and after having seen first results, my intention is to get closer to MACRO photography. Searching for close-up lenses I remain a bit confused which CANON- or other lenses I could use on my FD-lenses. Grateful to get some directions, based on your experiences. Best Regards, Karl Render

6. From : JWoods (centurywoods@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 06:10 PM Friday 11 April, 2003

Lubo: If you have some light budget, look for the older non Ai lenses - HOWEVER, it is better to investment into a AI/AI-S lense as one day, you MAY have to change camera and these series of Nikkor may reward you with better compatibility in the future (by the way, they are fully compatibilble with yout non AI Nikon FT2). A 28mm f/2.8/105 f/2.5 or 135mm f/2.8/300f4.5 is a good combination. Click at the bootom links at this page: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/index.htm as a general guide, lenses produced under directory of "late70nikkor" onwards carry an AI spec. Those under "preAI70" and "6070nikkor" are under NON-AI category.

7. From : Lubo (durina@minv.sk)
Url : http://
Date : 09:56 PM Thursday 10 April, 2003

Hello everebody, recently I have obtained a Nikkormat FT2 with Vivitar 28/2.5. I want to buy a prime lens for the camera. Would you give me an advise which lens I should buy? thanks Lubo

8. From : rick oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 08:32 PM Wednesday 09 April, 2003

Hi Pat: The "DRP" stands for "Deutches Reichs Patent", and it means essentially that the camera was made in Germany before (or during) World War II (after the war, it was changed to "DBP" for "Deutches Bundes Patent"). This doesn't tell much about which camera you have; it could be an original model Rolleiflex (with a knob to wind the film), or a Standard (with a crank to wind the film, and a crossbar frame in the viewfinder cover), or an Automat (crank film wind, with two chrome knobs on the front between the lenses for setting the shutter speed and aperture).... or possibly a Rolliecord I or II.

These do have some value; depending on model, probably in the general range of $100 to $200 if in nice condition. rick :)=

9. From : Jeff (jeffro109@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 11:58 PM Tuesday 08 April, 2003

I was wondering if anyone has a scanned copy of or knows where I can get a copy of the instructions for a Vivitar 7 element macro teleconverter (for Canon FD mount). I got one off Ebay for a steal but need more info on the macro settings, etc. Thanks in advance.

10. From : PAT BARTOL (CABLEMAN@LOCALNET.COM)
Url : http://
Date : 10:36 PM Tuesday 08 April, 2003

CAN ANYONE ADVISE ME AS TO WHAT A ROLLEI D.R.P. IS AND DOES IT HAVE ANY VALUE? THANKS PAT BARTOL

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