Optical Lenses - The eye(s) of every camera labels...
 

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Sometimes we all become too interested in the camera body because that is where most of the gadgets are. But it is the lens that makes the picture and most often the lens has a more direct influence on the eventual image quality 'output'. If economy is a consideration, you should consider buy a less expensive camera body rather than less expensive lenses. If you buy a SLR camera with only one lens is also not logical because you might as well buy a cheaper camera with a fixed, non-interchangeable lens like a P&S. But modern lenses has such fantastic features such as high power zoom with previously unimaginable zoom range which actually makes a single-lens-do-all photographic system viable. All those messages posted on the variuos Message Boards for SLR Models are not short of interesting comment and remarks on lenses. Well, not to confuse others who are just interested in cameras, I thought there is a neccessity for a separate Message Board for those who are interested in discussion on various issues on lenses as well..

Unlike the Message designed for camera of various makes, this MB is one-for-all type and thus I hope this section can be maintained as a peaceful zone. The maintainer of this site reserved all the right to censor or even delete any un-related, excessively hostile messages posted herein. This site is specifically created just for lenses. If your intention is to dispose your optics or looking for any used unit, please use the Free Trade Zone site instead. The Photography In Malaysia has no Guestbook on its own, because it is an integral part of the MIR site. But if you want to leave a note on your experience visiting this site, you may use the MIR's MIR Guestbook | instead.

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1. From : Rick (rriker@maine.rr.com)
Url : http://
Date : 05:49 AM Wednesday 31 January, 2007

I bought a used F3 in 1986 (hence no guidebook) and used it tons - had a family, did videos of the kids, early digital camera - now want to get back into using the F3, but it's been awhile and I can't remember details of using this wonderful camera. Changed the batteries - can't get the light meter to work - when I assign a shutter speed, M displays in the viewfinder but a +/- guidance for exposure dosen't appear as I change the aperture. If I put the shutter on automatic, it displays "80" in the viewfinder spot but no guidance on the lightmeter in the viewfinder. HELP! any web-based guidebooks or other advice...thanks


2. From : Laura Stenicky (LaurabytheSea@comcast.net)
Url : http://
Date : 12:15 AM Wednesday 31 January, 2007

Hi all....I have a D50 and a N65, so my equiptment is basically new.A friend of a friend etc etc gave me two old lenses that were found in the basement of a neighbor (you know one of those stories) I am clueless about them , the internet is so vast, maybe someone on here can give me some info. Will they work on my N65, are they worth anything, how old are they etc etc... Nikkor-S C Auto 1:14 f=50mm 1312629; Nikkor -Q Auto 1:35 f=135mm 950800 They seem to be in good condition, Thanks for your help, Laura


3. From : Tom PM (mem.tjm.pam@gmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 01:14 AM Tuesday 30 January, 2007

Hi - GREAT site!!!! You are obviously extraordinarily knowledgable about Nikkor lenses. Perhaps you can help me out with something that has been bothering me for some time, but I can't seem to figure out. I've been shooting high school basketball using available light and a d200 with various primes. My 20/2.8 AF-D, 85/1.4 AF-D, and my 80-200/2.8 AF-D EDIF Nikkors all do a fantastic job. However, when I have to shoot into the overhead lights or windows, my 50/1.4 AF-D exhibits a moderate veiling glare that's makes many of the images unusable without substantial cleanup in photoshop.

The optics on this lens look absolutely clean - not a speck of dirt or smudge. I had a UV filter on that lens, and removed it after I did some tests, and they showed that the contributed a bit to the glare. I'm trying to figure out why this one lens would act this way and was wondering if by any chance Nikon changed from NIC to SIC coating early in it's production. I purchased mine shortly after it came out in 1995. Any help / comments would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Tom PM

PS - Dumb question: I don't see any replies to submitted questions, only the answers. Is there a part of the website I missed or can't get to, or do you email the answers back to those questions you have the time to answer?


4. From : J schaumann (jschaumann@eoimaging.com)
Url : http://
Date : 01:49 AM Monday 29 January, 2007

Am looking for an 800 to 1000mm Nikon lens that transmission out to 1.2um


5. From : rick oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 10:41 AM Friday 26 January, 2007

hi smash: the lens diaphragm is stopped down by a linkage in the camera body, connected to the mirror mechanism. If the lens can't stop down, the linkage can't move... so the mirror can't go up... so the shutter can't fire. my guess is that the diaphragm in this lens has gotten sticky, and the linkage in the camera doesn't have enough power to operate it. Having a CLA done on the lens should take care of it.


6. From : Smash (canon@hawkhurst.net)
Url : http://
Date : 04:35 AM Friday 26 January, 2007

Cool site - great resource.I am a keen retro photographer as one who has spurned the digital age - well they are still learning how to build them. However, I've got a problem with a Canon FD 300mm f5.6. In auto when I mount it on an AE-1P and fire the shutter, something goes "click" but nothing happens until I dismount the lens. Then I hear the mirror and shutter fire. When lens it set to manual camera fires when I press the stop down slider in. Camera fires fine with other lenses. Any ideas anyone?

Thanks and keep snapping away.


7. From : rick oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 09:36 AM Thursday 25 January, 2007

Hi Reny:

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/htmls/models/digitalSLRs/D70/index.htm

Cut and paste the above link into your browser... there is a Nikon lens compatibility chart for the D70 there, I assume the D50 would be the same.

The requirement for "CPU" lenses to get any metering effectively rules out just about any manual focus lens. This, to me, is unforgivable.

I'm afraid I think that Nikon's "consistent" lens mount is a joke: there have been so many changes and incompatibilities in it over the years that it really would have been better if they had abandoned it. As an example, it was largely for this reason that I got a Canon digital instead of a Nikon: I can use ALL of my Non-AI Nikkors from my Nikon F with no problems on the Canon, but I couldn't use ANY of them on a Nikon. How much sense does that make?


8. From : Reny (reny@myflowers.com)
Url : http://
Date : 12:41 AM Thursday 25 January, 2007

For years I've used a Nikon F with micro-nikkor lenses 55 and 60 for my closeup wildflower photographs. This past year I bought a Nikon D50, after fighting going digital. Must admit I like it, but here's my ?? My 55mm lens gooped up on my and is not usable, plus it didn't allow my D50 meter to work. My 60mm does work fine on the D50. I want to replace my 55mm with another one, but am confused by all the reviews I read. I always use manual focus, but do want the meter to be able to work on my D60, although I set the f and aperture manually as well. What particulars should I be looking for on my "new" 55mm?


9. From : Richard Tugwell (r.tugwell@aimforth.com)
Url : http://www.forthmedia.com/photoblog
Date : 02:32 AM Friday 19 January, 2007

As a long time OM/Zuiko fan I've always found this site a great resource. However there have always been too few practical examples of Zuiko lenswork. I've started trawling through my images and taking new ones, the results are being posted on my blog

www.forthmedia.com/photoblog.

This is not just a shameless plug - I hope I can contribute something to the OM fan club


10. From : rick (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 09:24 AM Thursday 18 January, 2007

Hi Paul:

I don't know about the MD4. I do have an old Nikon F with the F36 motor drive, and that motor has a frame counter that you have to set to match your roll length.... when it reaches zero the motor stops, regardless of whether you have film loaded or not. The reason for this was to prevent the powerful, high speed motor (the F36 motor ran 4FPS back in the early 60s) from tearing the film out of the can when it hit the end of the roll.

Maybe the MD4 has a similar feature, for a similar reason....


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Maintainers for Various Optic Message Board:
Rick Oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com); Greg Chappell (gregmchappell@nww.net), Luigi D. Sandon (cp@sandon.it); Ken Durling (kdurling@kendurling.net); Robert Glenn Middleton (the_redd_groyne@hotmail.co.uk)

In memory of Mr. Ken Durling (1951-2007)
who had served this board for the last 8-10 years with al his love and passion on photography.


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| Olympus OM Manual Focus Zuiko Lenses | Contax T* Lenses


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