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Sometimes we all become too interested in the camera body because that is where most of the gadgets are. But it is the lens that makes the picture and most often the lens has a more direct influence on the eventual image quality 'output'. If economy is a consideration, you should consider buy a less expensive camera body rather than less expensive lenses. If you buy a SLR camera with only one lens is also not logical because you might as well buy a cheaper camera with a fixed, non-interchangeable lens like a P&S. But modern lenses has such fantastic features such as high power zoom with previously unimaginable zoom range which actually makes a single-lens-do-all photographic system viable. All those messages posted on the variuos Message Boards for SLR Models are not short of interesting comment and remarks on lenses. Well, not to confuse others who are just interested in cameras, I thought there is a neccessity for a separate Message Board for those who are interested in discussion on various issues on lenses as well..
Unlike the Message designed for camera of various makes, this MB is one-for-all type and thus I hope this section can be maintained as a peaceful zone. The maintainer of this site reserved all the right to censor or even delete any un-related, excessively hostile messages posted herein. This site is specifically created just for lenses. If your intention is to dispose your optics or looking for any used unit, please use the Free Trade Zone site instead. The Photography In Malaysia has no Guestbook on its own, because it is an integral part of the MIR site. But if you want to leave a note on your experience visiting this site, you may use the MIR's MIR Guestbook | instead.
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Canon Manual Focus FL-mount Lenses | FD(n) Manual Focus Lenses | Autofocus EF Lenses
| Nikon RF-Nikkor Lenses | Nikon Manual Focus Nikkor Lenses | Autofocus (AF) Nikkor Lenses
| Olympus OM Zuiko Lenses | Contax T* Lenses
Url : http://
Date : 04:10 PM Thursday 06 March, 2008
I had asked a question earlier (Sorry if I had added some Chinese as I am from Shenchen) but don know why it was deleted. So I will repeat here once again: Can some of my Penatx lenses used with my old manual focus PROGRAM A camera be used with the new Pentax digital SlR ??2. From : fauzi (no@more.mail)
Url : http://
Date : 02:53 PM Monday 03 March, 2008
Since I am on the line, I notice the older pages have a less appealing factors than the newer lens pages (EF/FD) which provides more detailed info and with very selection of pictures as supplement. Why don't consider update the pages with more pictures ??? Just a suggestion.3. From : fauzi (no@more.mail)
Url : http://
Date : 02:50 PM Monday 03 March, 2008
For repair manual, you can try http://www.craigcamera.com however, unless you are very skillful, the cost of buying a manual and repairing further with damages done may be cheaper than sending your lens to a repair service centre. Sorry, if I had offended anyone.4. From : Mitchel Bowen (mitchel109@yahoo.com)
Url :
Date : 10:58 AM Monday 03 March, 2008
I'm looking for an exploded view of an AF Nikor 70-210mm f4-5.6 that my dad gave to me broken with his old N2020
Thanks for your help,5. From : JWoods (centuryoldwoods@noSPAM.com)
Url : http://
Date : 02:51 PM Sunday 02 March, 2008
I would say a NO for this combination. The lenses for RS has a different mount (even they came from the same creator) lenses for underwater use has s strong water tight property. However, lenses for Autofocus Nikonos RS (With a RS body) will focus both on land and sea. Pre-RS era models such as IV, V etc. Please note things magnifies thru the lens when you are under the water (except for RS, other cameras viewfinder is not even rangefinder but rather just serve as a visual guide), focusing with older Nikonoses is using "estimate" manner, which based on Depth of field theory. The focal length of a lens in water is not directly comparable to the focal length of a lens working in air. The parameter corresponds with angle of coverage. example, 28mm will render the image as 35mm, 20mm for the UW-15mm etc. Anyway, here is a link to read more on this topic (Where I only have a Nikons V for fun in the pool):- http://www.camerasunderwater.info/optics/fov.html
A section of it explains "..The Nikonos camera system has a very large range of lenses associated with it; primary optics having been manufactured by Nikon and Sea & Sea, and other lens accessories having been made by various manufacturers. All can be used with any manual focus Nikonos (or Calypsofot) model (not the RS-AF), with the exception that early versions of the Nikonos 15mm f/2.8 are incompatible with the TTL metering system of the Nikonos IVa and V. Nikon used the terminology 'W-Nikkor' for a waterproof lens corrected for use in air (recognisable by the flat front glass), and 'UW-Nikkor' for a lens corrected for use underwater (and having a convex or concave front glass). Nikon also made an LW-Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 lens, for use in tropical conditions (air corrected, not submersible). All of the W-Nikkor lenses focus in water, but of the UW-Nikkor lenses, only the 28mm f/3.5 will focus in air. One of the principal advantages of the Nikonos system was the availability of water-corrected lenses, which (before the advent of software radial correction) always gave a higher resolution than an equivalent air-corrected lens mounted behind a port....". Hope these help and forget that combination of a RS-UW Nikkor with a Nikon F3.6. From : Casey (qq@lenses.com)
Url : http://
Date : 04:38 PM Friday 29 February, 2008
I got a question: Can the unwater lenses RS-Nikkor be used on my F3 ???7. From : budiman (joint@discussion.com)
Url : http://
Date : 04:23 PM Friday 29 February, 2008
I think he mentioned it was an EF 100mm, which means it is the autofocus version.8. From : rick oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 11:36 AM Friday 29 February, 2008
Hi John:
Which 100mm lens do you have? The 100/2.0 only focuses to about 3 feet, the 100/2.8 goes in to about 9 inches. If you have the 100/2.0, that's probably not the best tool for the job. The f/2.8 should be close enough for most flowers and bugs, unless you find that you just can't (or don't want to) get that close to the subject.
If the latter is the case, then a teleconverter might be useful: it will permit you to get to 1:1 magnification from a more comfortable distance of about 18 inches, and it will also get you all the way to 2:1 if you push it to its limit. I'm not sure just how the quality will come out, it won't be quite as good as with the lens alone but it will probably be good enough for a lot of situations if you get a good quality converter.
The other obvious option is an extension tube, but it does not solve the same problems. An extension tube will get you a higher magnification ratio, but you'll have to move in closer to get there. On the other hand, it won't degrade your image quality, so if higher magnification, and not more breathing space, is what you want, the extension tube is probably the better way to go.9. From : Luigi D. Sandon (cp@sandon.it)
Url : http://
Date : 03:38 AM Friday 29 February, 2008
Dareel: the FD 200/4 macro reaches 1:1 without any extender.10. From : JWoods (centuryoldguy@nowhere.com)PAGE | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 50 | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 57 | 58 | 59 | 60 | 61 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 | 70 | 71 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 75 | 76 | 77 | 78 | 79 | 80 | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 | 87 | 88 | 89 | 90 | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 | 96 | 97 | 98 | 99 | 100 | 101 | 102 | 103 | 104 | 105 | 106 | 107 | 108 | 109 | 110 | 111 | 112 | 113 | 114 | 115 | 116 | 117 | 118 | 119 | 120 | 121 | 122 | 123 | 124 | 125 | 126 | 127 | 128 | 129 | 130 | 131 | 132 | 133 | 134 | 135 | 136 | 137 | 138 | 139 | 140 | 141 | 142 | 143 | 144 | 145 | 146 | 147 | 148 | 149 | 150 | 151 | 152 | 153 | 154 | 155 | 156 | 157 | 158 | 159 | 160 | 161 | 162 | 163 | 164 | 165 | 166 | 167 | 168 | 169 | 170 | 171 | 172 | 173 | 174 | 175 | 176 | 177 | 178 | 179 | 180 | 181 | 182 | 183 | 184 | 185 | 186 | 187 | 188 | 189 | 190 | 191 | 192 | 193 | 194 | 195 | 196 | 197 | 198 | 199 | 200 | 201 | 202 | 203 | 204 | 205 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 210 | 211 | 212 | 213 | 214 | 215 | 216
Url : http://
Date : 04:34 PM Thursday 28 February, 2008
You have mentioned "105mm Nikkor-P 1:4". I do not think it was an Enlarging Nikkor as usually EL-Nikkor is marked on the lens data. "P" is referring use of 5 elements design but that was not conclusive as most Nikkor 105mm (which includes the classic 105mm f2.5 uses that (even the Micro-Nikkor 105mm f4 - my all time favourite !). The best bet is the Bellow-Nikkor 105mm f4.0. It has a chrome ring, the apertures are marked slightly behind and may be there are worn off - you can check again. The only Nikkor - tele that doesn has a clear aperture control on the lens is the old 135mm Bellow. May be I am wrong or there are versions that I am not aware of, but guess not.
Maintainers for Various Optic Message Board:
Rick Oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com); Greg Chappell (gregmchappell@nww.net), Luigi D. Sandon (cp@sandon.it); Ken Durling (kdurling@kendurling.net); Robert Glenn Middleton (the_redd_groyne@hotmail.co.uk)
In memory of Mr. Ken Durling (1951-2007)
who had served this board for the last 8-10 years with al his love and passion on photography.| Post a Message to the Message Board |
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