Discussion Forum for various Lenses of different major labels in a shared environment at Photography In Malaysia

1. From : John Slevin (jpslevin@utvinternet.com)
Url : http://
Date : 10:14 PM Monday 02 February, 2009

I've just bought a used Zuiko OM 35-70mm f3.6 zoom lens ,used, on eBay.
It looks to be in good overall condition but the zoom ring is quite stiff, especially at the wider (35mm) setting.

Is there an easy fix for this problem, such as lubrication, or is it more likely to be worn bearings and an expensive repair?

Thanks for any advice.

John.

2. From : Glenn Middleton (the_redd_groyne@hotmail.co.uk)
Url : http://
Date : 01:18 AM Sunday 01 February, 2009

Oh what must be the joys of a fully air conditioned/centrally heated house!! Up here in the wilds of Yorkshire we have to knock the icicles off the pump each winter's morning, before getting enough freezing water to fill the tin bath. Still it was much worse in my younger days. It was so cold that the water froze as it was poured into the tin bath, requiring one to smash the layer of ice with the frozen loofa before you could get in.

Rick your explanation is very sensible and obviously works, as it should for anybody who has years of D & P experience under their belt - you soon get know what you have to do to produce printable or scannable negatives.

3. From : Rick Oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 11:03 AM Friday 30 January, 2009

I'm a bit embarrassed to admit this...

The reason that I left out the thermometer is because I don't use one. I keep gallon jugs of distilled water at room temperature and mix the developer in that, one tank at a time... since I keep the temperature of the room constant, I no longer check the temperature of the liquid itself. I don't recommend doing this, but I haven't had any problems with it.

I DO recommend the distilled water, though: the absence of minerals in the water (which we have a lot of where I live) greatly reduces the tendency to form bubbles when you pour it into the tank, and bubbles on the film create odd little round spots that will show in your prints.

But it's a good idea to use a thermometer, even if you're pretty sure of your temperature, because recommended developing times will be different even with only a few degrees of temperature change.

4. From : Glenn Middleton (the_redd_groyne@hotmail.co.uk)
Url : http://
Date : 02:18 AM Thursday 29 January, 2009

The only item Rick has missed out is a thermometer, again a cheap item but important if you want reproducible results - you can get one made for measuring the temperature of photographic chemicals, but any thermometer that allows you to accurately read it in the 15 -30 degree Centigrade range will be OK. It is possible to buy a 'Daylight Loading Tank' for 35mm film which need no darkness to load - you just drop in the complete cassette, hook up the film leader, secure the tank lid and wind a knob or handle (depends which model tank one has)to load the film into the tank spiral. An inbuilt knife then cuts the film so that one can remove the empty cassette and pour in the chemicals. The only downside is that these tanks use a drop more chemical, but it saves on the changing bag. Now that I scan all my negatives and print via computer, this is the tank I use as my darkroom has reverted to the more important small machine shop.

5. From : Rick Oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 12:40 PM Wednesday 28 January, 2009

Hi Taki:

I don't know where you are, but if you have a local library go down there and look for a book on photography - some of the best of these date from the 1970s, though there are good ones that are more recent. It will tell you a lot more detail than you can get here.

To develop your own (I assume black & white) film, you need a developing tank, 3 1-liter bottles for chemicals, and a dark place (either a windowless room or a changing bag) to load the film into the tank. You need the chemicals, of course, which are now easier to get online than locally in most places: developer, stop bath and fixer; you need something to measure the chemicals in, a measuring cup will do but a graduated cylinder is better. A bottle of Photo-Flo is a good idea, to reduce water spots on the film, depends on the quality of your local tap water. And something to hang the film with while it dries. After it's done, I store my negatives in sheets that fit in 3-ring binders.

It's not a big investment, and you basically do the job in your kitchen sink. I like the Ilford chemicals because they come in liquid concentrates that I can mix up one roll at a time - Kodak powders have to be mixed by the quart or more, and then may expire before you've used it all.

6. From : taki (takianna_johnson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 02:39 AM Tuesday 27 January, 2009

hi

i would like to how how can i develop the film on my own wat do i need...i just got the canon t60...plzzz write back thank u

7. From : Glenn Middleton (the_redd_groyne@hotmail.co.uk)
Url : http://
Date : 12:56 AM Saturday 24 January, 2009

Lloyd,

Your Canon CL zoom is for the Canon L1/L2 Video Cameras, and at a guess will be useless on a Canon DSLR - even if you could hang it on somehow.It should be noted however that there is an adapter that allows the use of EF lenses on the video camera

8. From : rick oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 12:10 PM Friday 23 January, 2009

Hi Max: I found the photo you're referring to on

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/RF-Nikkor/RF85mm/index.htm

This lens is an 85mm f/2.0 Nikkor, made for the Nikon rangefinder cameras of the 1950s (unless it has a 'C' engraved on the side of the barrel, in which case it fits a Zeiss Contax camera). To remove the plastic cap on the rear end of the lens, you press in on the chrome button on the side while turning the cap Clockwise.

I can't give you a current value but I can tell you that it is an excellent, very sharp lens. To check on current prices, search on eBay for "85mm Rangefinder Nikkor" to find similar items. The 'completed auctions' listings will show you the actual selling prices. I had one of these in the Contax version, and believe it's one of the sharpest lenses I've ever had.

9. From : Lloyd Johnson (ljohnson82@cox.net)
Url : http://
Date : 03:51 AM Friday 23 January, 2009

I have come up with this very expensive looking lens and wonder if ny one knows 0f an adapter to use it on a Canon late model digital camera. Description as follows: VI. 15X AF Macro. Cannon Zoom Lens CL 8-120 1:1.4-2.1 with an extender CL 2X. This lens has contacts which lend me to believe it is totally automatic. Its quite heavy and looks like new. The 2X extender mounts to the contact end of the basic 15X lens assembly. I will apprecite any information about the lens including any one interested in trading for it.
Thanks Lloyd ljohnson82@cox.net

10. From : Max (ladyshaman1973@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 02:40 AM Friday 23 January, 2009

In the third photo down from the top, there is a Nikko lens with serial no. 288288. I have one that looks just like it with serial no. 289457. I have no clue as to what it's worth. There's also some kind of black plastic cap on the bottom which I'm not how to remove (I'm hesitant to try). Any idea on the value of my lens?

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