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Sometimes we all become too interested in the camera body because that is where most of the gadgets are. But it is the lens that makes the picture and most often the lens has a more direct influence on the eventual image quality 'output'. If economy is a consideration, you should consider buy a less expensive camera body rather than less expensive lenses. If you buy a SLR camera with only one lens is also not logical because you might as well buy a cheaper camera with a fixed, non-interchangeable lens like a P&S. But modern lenses has such fantastic features such as high power zoom with previously unimaginable zoom range which actually makes a single-lens-do-all photographic system viable. All those messages posted on the variuos Message Boards for SLR Models are not short of interesting comment and remarks on lenses. Well, not to confuse others who are just interested in cameras, I thought there is a neccessity for a separate Message Board for those who are interested in discussion on various issues on lenses as well..
Unlike the Message designed for camera of various makes, this MB is one-for-all type and thus I hope this section can be maintained as a peaceful zone. The maintainer of this site reserved all the right to censor or even delete any un-related, excessively hostile messages posted herein. This site is specifically created just for lenses. If your intention is to dispose your optics or looking for any used unit, please use the Free Trade Zone site instead. The Photography In Malaysia has no Guestbook on its own, because it is an integral part of the MIR site. But if you want to leave a note on your experience visiting this site, you may use the MIR's MIR Guestbook | instead.
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Canon Manual Focus FL-mount Lenses | FD(n) Manual Focus Lenses | Autofocus EF Lenses
| Nikon RF-Nikkor Lenses | Nikon Manual Focus Nikkor Lenses | Autofocus (AF) Nikkor Lenses
| Olympus OM Zuiko Lenses | Contax T* Lenses
1. From : Claudio Gaiarsa (claudiogaiarsa@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 08:44 PM Tuesday 15 August, 2006
I have got myself two different nikkor zoom lenses with the same specs: one is made in Japan and the other is made in thailand. Both are AF 28-80 f3.5-5.6D. Does anyone know the difference between these two? Thay look different, the japanese is smaller, and it extends to a smaller size thant the thai one, when zoom is in the 80mm position.2. From : Glenn Middleton (the_redd_groyne@hotmail.co.uk)
Url : http://
Date : 07:26 PM Monday 14 August, 2006
You do not indicate which camera you are trying to use the combo on. Also, am I right in assuming that this is a 2x extender? (I assume this because of the swap that can occur between " and @ keys) This lens will autofocus with a 1.4x extender on a 1D MK11, because this camera will auto focus at f8. The lens will not work on the 10D with a 1.4x extender. The 1.4 x extender; is made specifically to enable the autofocus facility on certain longer focal length lenses, of medium maximum aperture. The use of the 2x extender can be very problematical. I think that as you have found the combo does not work, then the only option will be to use the manual focus option.3. From : hammer (cherpub@itlnet.net)
Url : http://www.cherpb.com
Date : 04:58 AM Monday 14 August, 2006
Having added acanonEf@x extender to Ef100-400 1:4.5-5.6L IS I can't get the camera to focus-help would be appreciated
cherpub@itlnet.net4. From : Glenn Middleton (the_redd_groyne@hotmail.co.uk)
Url : http://
Date : 01:19 AM Monday 14 August, 2006
Laura, As Ken has already indicated, without the specifics of your lens it is not pssible to give definitive advice. However I will mention that on some lenses with separate zoom rings, the zoom lock is operated by pushing/pulling the zoom ring along the optical axis. This type of lock mechanism can wear/free up over time, thus becoming very easy to engage. I have always found that the zoom function is very stiff in old lenses with dried lubricant. If the zoom action was nice and free/smooth when you first operated the lens, I would initially look for a lock function. Failing that, give the lens a good shake. Daft as it may seem, there could be the odd loose screw/broken part floating around inside, especially on a lens that has been knocked about. - Glenn Middleton 5. From : Ken D (kdurling@comcast.net)
Url : http://
Date : 01:16 AM Sunday 13 August, 2006
Laura - You don't mention which lens this is, and whether it's a two-touch or one-touch zoom (zoom and focus rings seperate or combined) but does it by any chance have a zoom lock screw that got locked down? Another possibility would be that the zoom lubricant is exhausted and it did jam, in which case it would probably only be worth fixing if it is one of the "Series 1" zooms from Vivitar. One can buy replacement manual focus lenses for a song these days, so in either case it's not the end of the world! Ken6. From : Laura (warped_Glass@Yahoo.com)
Url : n/a
Date : 12:41 PM Saturday 12 August, 2006
I feel very stupid asking this, but I was recently given an old Canon AE-1 camera, with a vivitar zoom lens. When I was first experimenting with it, i was able to get it to zoom in and out, but after that initial try, I have only been able to get it to focus; it's stuck at 200 mm. Any tips? (I promise I'm not totally inept when it comes to this kind of thing. I just seem to have bad luck with used cameras.)7. From : christian pinaud (csocrate@mac.com)
Url : http://
Date : 06:00 PM Friday 11 August, 2006
Hi I have bought a zoom Nikkor 35-70 mm, 1:3.3-4.5, serial number 2023901. I have read your notice on a 35-70, 1:3.5. Is somebody have some informations about mine.
Thanks for this site which is a infinite source of informations about Nikon !
Friendly yours.8. From : Ken Durling (kdurling@comcast.net)
Url : http://
Date : 12:27 PM Wednesday 09 August, 2006
Sam - Any FD lens will fit an AE-1. Technically all FD mounts are bayonet type, (as opposed to threaded) but the term is sometimes used to distinguish the later nFD ("New" FD)lenses from the earlier "breech lock" (BL) type of mount. The BL mount has a silver locking ring which engages the bayonet lugs, while on the later nFD mount lenses the whole lens turns to lock onto the mount. There is a slightly different configuration to the bayonet lug receptors, too. But either type will work just fine with your AE-1, as the difference is only in the lens - the body retained the same basic lens mount - although with an evolving linkage - through FL, FD and nFD evolutions. That 85/1.8 is a very nice lens. Enjoy! ken9. From : Sam Lee (sam3823@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 11:48 AM Wednesday 09 August, 2006
Anyone know if a Canon FD 85mm 1.8 "bay mount" lens will fit a Canon AE-1 without adapter? Thanks in advance.10. From : Robert Glenn Middleton (the_redd_groyne@hotmail.co.uk)PAGE | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 57 | 58 | 59 | 60 | 61 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 | 70 | 71 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 75 | 76 | 77 | 78 | 79 | 80 | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 | 87 | 88 | 89 | 90 | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 | 96 | 97 | 98 99 | 100 | 101 | 102 | 103 | 104 | 105 | 106 | 107 | 108 | 109 | 110 | 111 | 112 | 113 | 114 | 115 | 116 | 117 | 118 | 119 | 120 | 121 | 122 | 123 | 124 | 125 | 126 | 127 | 128 | 129 | 130 | 131 | 132 | 133 | 134 | 135 | 136 | 137 | 138 | 139 | 140 | 141 | 142 | 143 | 144 | 145 | 146 | 147 | 148 | 149 | 150 | 151 | 152 | 153 | 154 | 155 | 156 | 157 | 158 | 159 | 160 | 161 | 162 | 163 | 164 | 165 | 166 | 167 | 168 | 169 | 170 | 171 | 172 | 173 | 174 | 175 | 176 | 177 | 178 | 179 | 180 | 181 | 182 | 183 | 184 | 185 | 186 | 187 | 188 | 189 | 190 | 191 | 192 | 193 | 194 | 195 | 196 | 197 | 198 | 199 | 200 | 201 | 202 | 203 | 204 | 205 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 210 | 211 | 212 | 213 | 214 | 215 | 216
Url : http://
Date : 11:40 PM Tuesday 08 August, 2006
Bob, If you can focus quickly and accurately using the 12mm matte circle on the B screen, then you are OK with manual lenses. You may find that the J screen with a 5mm microprism circle or the K and P with split image/microprism combo will be of more use, P screen has the split image at 45 deg. It really all comes down to what your preferred subject matter is and how good your eyesight is. Years ago the plain matte screen was my first choice, now I am grateful for all the focusing aids the screen will provide.
Glenn.
Maintainers for Various Optic Message Board:
Rick Oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com); Greg Chappell (gregmchappell@nww.net), Luigi D. Sandon (cp@sandon.it); Ken Durling (kdurling@kendurling.net); Robert Glenn Middleton (the_redd_groyne@hotmail.co.uk)
In memory of Mr. Ken Durling (1951-2007)
who had served this board for the last 8-10 years with al his love and passion on photography.| Post a Message to the Message Board |
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