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Sometimes we all become too interested in the camera body because that is where most of the gadgets are. But it is the lens that makes the picture and most often the lens has a more direct influence on the eventual image quality 'output'. If economy is a consideration, you should consider buy a less expensive camera body rather than less expensive lenses. If you buy a SLR camera with only one lens is also not logical because you might as well buy a cheaper camera with a fixed, non-interchangeable lens like a P&S. But modern lenses has such fantastic features such as high power zoom with previously unimaginable zoom range which actually makes a single-lens-do-all photographic system viable. All those messages posted on the variuos Message Boards for SLR Models are not short of interesting comment and remarks on lenses. Well, not to confuse others who are just interested in cameras, I thought there is a neccessity for a separate Message Board for those who are interested in discussion on various issues on lenses as well..
Unlike the Message designed for camera of various makes, this MB is one-for-all type and thus I hope this section can be maintained as a peaceful zone. The maintainer of this site reserved all the right to censor or even delete any un-related, excessively hostile messages posted herein. This site is specifically created just for lenses. If your intention is to dispose your optics or looking for any used unit, please use the Free Trade Zone site instead. The Photography In Malaysia has no Guestbook on its own, because it is an integral part of the MIR site. But if you want to leave a note on your experience visiting this site, you may use the MIR's MIR Guestbook | instead.
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Canon Manual Focus FL-mount Lenses | FD(n) Manual Focus Lenses | Autofocus EF Lenses
| Nikon RF-Nikkor Lenses | Nikon Manual Focus Nikkor Lenses | Autofocus (AF) Nikkor Lenses
| Olympus OM Zuiko Lenses | Contax T* Lenses
Url : http://
Date : 08:18 AM Friday 17 April, 2009
I have the nikkor-q 1:135 f=135 mm, serial # 808780. How can I find out what it is worth?2. From : rick oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 10:25 AM Wednesday 15 April, 2009
Hi Frank:
This sounds to me like the normal result of the clearances that are required to make the automatic diaphragm operate quickly and reliably. Unless a blade is particularly out of position, or something appears to be displaced or broken, I would not worry about it.3. From : Frank (kv4eg@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 11:09 PM Tuesday 14 April, 2009
...I've recently purchased a Nikkor 50mm F1.4 AI lens to add to my collection. It's in great cosmetic condition, glass is clean, and the aperture blades are snappy and oil-free. However, as you stop down past F5.6 the 7 blades seem to stop down a bit unevenly - not a true, perfect septogram. Is this normal or something I should be concerned about? The pictures taken with it look fine, but this being now the oldest lens I own (and the only AI), I'm just not sure how much of a problem it is (or may become!).
Thanks!
fdh4. From : Glenn Middleton (the_redd_groyne@hotmail.co.uk)
Url : http://
Date : 06:17 PM Tuesday 14 April, 2009
Roger,
FD mount lenses manufactured by Canon do not have an auto/manual lever, the aperture ring actuates the setting change. Of course we may just be talking semantics here, if so I am sorry for appearing a 'clever dick', and you are referring to the Canon nFD f5.6 100- 300mm lens all along. If this is so, do you mean that the lens will actually mount on the body, but the latch button on the lens does not pop out?
If the lens is the genuine article, it is just possible that the fault lies in the latch/inner part of lens mount. The easiest way to check nFD lens latch function is to mount the Canon Macro Hood on the lens - this small device protects the rear elements when a reversing ring is used, but in mounting the hood the latch functions and allows the manual operation of the diaphragm. It is very easy to make a substitute, to allow the latch etc to be tested (a macro hood or substitute is an indispensable tool when repairing nFD lenses). Is the rear lens cap the genuine Canon nFD item - finger grip serrations around circumference of rear part of cap? If so with outer rear of cap facing you, locate the alignment triangle and the the male bayonet flange segment below said datum. The flange has a small notch and on the left-hand end of flange there is a raised stop - this stops the cap rotating fully in the lens mount. Cut off the stop flush with the top surface of the flange segment, place cap on lens and fully rotate. The latch button should function when cap reaches the internal stop, if latch does not work then you will have to remove the complete assembly from the lens and clean.
However it is possible that due to wear/dirt, the inner rotating part of the mount was very slightly misaligned and this was the cause of the problem. If this was so, the mounting of the modified cap and testing the latch can realign the inner part into the proper position. You may find that the lens will now latch properly - this has happened to me on a number of occasions with well used nFD optics.5. From : Roger Jones (rogerjones@embarqmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 08:35 PM Saturday 11 April, 2009
I just purchased a FD 100-300mm lens to be used on my A-1 and T-90 cameras. I noticed that the Automatic/Manual Aperature Lever is much different than the one on my ohter lens. When I mount the lens it will not latch after it is twisted all the way on. Is there something I am doing wrong or is there a problem with the lens? I have the A lined up with the orange index mark just like on all my other lens.6. From : Duck (dora4180-cf4180@yahoo.com.hk)
Url : http://
Date : 04:21 PM Saturday 11 April, 2009
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/AFNikkor/AF75300mm/index.htm
"... but when shifting to manual focus, this lens can permit MACRO SHOOTING (indicated via the orange macro line on the manual focusing ring). ..."
I have some experience with this AF 75-300 and the switch is a focus limiter rather than a M-A switch. I can perform autofocus even in the focusing range marked with the orange line.7. From : Darren Teasdale (dazartwork@googlemail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 04:04 AM Saturday 11 April, 2009
I have an old Canon T70 SLR camera and am looking to purchase a fisheye lense that is suitable. I'm admittedly not a technical person when it comes to this but would like some direction. It's a 35mm film camera and I need to know what fittings or makes will be of service to me or if anyone can just point me in the right direction of what I require?
Any help would be mostly appreciated, thank you.8. From : jack (jack98765@pchome.com.tw)
Url : http://
Date : 08:56 AM Wednesday 01 April, 2009
i find that the TC-16A can auto focus on max. aperture f4 of f4+ TC-16A+E70~210/F4(please see below picture)
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n25/A101939/F4/64.jpg
(the web data)
This converter was recommended for use on Nikkors up to 300mm in focal length with widest apertures of at least f/2.8 for faster
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/teleconverter/tc16a/index.htm9. From : robert mcneil (rob149@tpg.com.au)
Url : http://
Date : 01:13 PM Sunday 22 March, 2009
will a nikon tc 201 work with d2x=70-200vr10. From : snajper (snajpe@exemail.com.au)PAGE | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 57 | 58 | 59 | 60 | 61 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 | 70 | 71 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 75 | 76 | 77 | 78 | 79 | 80 | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 | 87 | 88 | 89 | 90 | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 | 96 | 97 | 98 | 99 | 100 | 101 | 102 | 103 | 104 | 105 | 106 | 107 | 108 | 109 | 110 | 111 | 112 | 113 | 114 | 115 | 116 | 117 | 118 | 119 | 120 | 121 | 122 | 123 | 124 | 125 | 126 | 127 | 128 | 129 | 130 | 131 | 132 | 133 | 134 | 135 | 136 | 137 | 138 | 139 | 140 | 141 | 142 | 143 | 144 | 145 | 146 | 147 | 148 | 149 | 150 | 151 | 152 | 153 | 154 | 155 | 156 | 157 | 158 | 159 | 160 | 161 | 162 | 163 | 164 | 165 | 166 | 167 | 168 | 169 | 170 | 171 | 172 | 173 | 174 | 175 | 176 | 177 | 178 | 179 | 180 | 181 | 182 | 183 | 184 | 185 | 186 | 187 | 188 | 189 | 190 | 191 | 192 | 193 | 194 | 195 | 196 | 197 | 198 | 199 | 200 | 201 | 202 | 203 | 204 | 205 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 210 | 211 | 212 | 213 | 214 | 215 | 216
Url : http://
Date : 10:18 AM Monday 16 March, 2009
Hi,
I have Zuiko Auto-S 50mm F1.8 lens as seen in the link below:
I am wondering if this lens has radioactive content?
Thanks
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270318142485
Maintainers for Various Optic Message Board:
Rick Oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com); Greg Chappell (gregmchappell@nww.net), Luigi D. Sandon (cp@sandon.it); Ken Durling (kdurling@kendurling.net); Robert Glenn Middleton (the_redd_groyne@hotmail.co.uk)
In memory of Mr. Ken Durling (1951-2007)
who had served this board for the last 8-10 years with al his love and passion on photography.| Post a Message to the Message Board |
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| Olympus OM Manual Focus Zuiko Lenses | Contax T* Lenses
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