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Sometimes we all become too interested in the camera body because that is where most of the gadgets are. But it is the lens that makes the picture and most often the lens has a more direct influence on the eventual image quality 'output'. If economy is a consideration, you should consider buy a less expensive camera body rather than less expensive lenses. If you buy a SLR camera with only one lens is also not logical because you might as well buy a cheaper camera with a fixed, non-interchangeable lens like a P&S. But modern lenses has such fantastic features such as high power zoom with previously unimaginable zoom range which actually makes a single-lens-do-all photographic system viable. All those messages posted on the variuos Message Boards for SLR Models are not short of interesting comment and remarks on lenses. Well, not to confuse others who are just interested in cameras, I thought there is a neccessity for a separate Message Board for those who are interested in discussion on various issues on lenses as well..
Unlike the Message designed for camera of various makes, this MB is one-for-all type and thus I hope this section can be maintained as a peaceful zone. The maintainer of this site reserved all the right to censor or even delete any un-related, excessively hostile messages posted herein. This site is specifically created just for lenses. If your intention is to dispose your optics or looking for any used unit, please use the Free Trade Zone site instead. The Photography In Malaysia has no Guestbook on its own, because it is an integral part of the MIR site. But if you want to leave a note on your experience visiting this site, you may use the MIR's MIR Guestbook | instead.
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Url : http://
Date : 10:33 AM Friday 22 September, 2006
Jack,
The focal length multiplier is 0.45, so you can easily work out the theoretical angle of coverage for your camera lens. Have not done the price conversion into UK£, however you can pick these things up in UK for £10/£20 - depending on where you look. At times eBay is awash with the things. If the maker of your camera sells a wide angle adapter lens for your specific model, check out their recommended price for the item. This will be the maximum price you would have to pay for said adapter. Any third party/after market item will be available for much less - 30%-60% of new price judging from eBay prices.
Some Asian manufacturer is obviously trying to cash in on the 'Zeiss' brand name. Sorry, but I think you have been taken to the cleaners.
2. From : Jack (jklarnet@bigpond.net.au)
Url : http://
Date : 01:57 PM Thursday 21 September, 2006
I also bought a ZICE wide angle lens 58mm 0.45xAF in Fisherman's Wharf area of San Francisco but it was quite expensive (over AU$1400).It is "high definition digital lens with macro suitable for all fine digital SLR cameras"
It hardly increases the view of the photo-- maybe 10% . Have I been duped?
Any comments would be appreciated3. From : Victor (vicsea@hotmail.co.uk)
Url : http://
Date : 04:41 AM Monday 18 September, 2006
Hi. I have recently aquired a "Zoom-Nikkor 50~135mm f/3.5" lens which was made in 1984. It still has the original warranty and dealers reccord. I have absoloutely no knowledge of lenses what so ever- but how much would this lens be worth roughly? Many Thanks4. From : Robert Glenn Middleton (the_redd_groyne@hotmail.co.uk)
Url : http://
Date : 06:01 AM Wednesday 13 September, 2006
The first series of AE-1 and A-1 bodies have hard contacts for the X terminal and the auto flash circuits. This allows the complete removal of the top housing - no wires to consider. There are two strip contacts on top of the pentaprism. These mate with similar contacts under the hotshoe, in the top housing and carry the flash auto signal circuits. Alongside the galvo in the body is a vertical sprung contact, this is joined by a wire to the actual X contact switch located under the shutter dial. When the top is located on the body, a contact pin on the rear of the actual PC socket makes contact with the vertical sprung contact. A wire runs from the PC contact pin to the switch under the hotshoe, switch is connected to the centre contact. Hotshoe centre contact is dead unless shoe switch is activated by inserting flash in shoe.
Subsequent cost cutting exercises removed the vertical sprung contact for the PC socket, the PC centre contact being joined to the body by a length of wire soldered to a tag held by the screw that originally held the vertical contact. The fitting of the first series of bodies involved the use of shim pads for top alignment and the correct spacing of the vertical sprung contact would appear to be quite time consuming.
The second and subsequent series of A-1 bodies all use the above modification. As for the modifications to the AE-1 I cannot say, I have only seen the type described on mid series bodies. However because of the number produced and the actual reduction in price in real terms, from what Rick says the wiring seems to have been completely altered.
It should be noted that I have come across an A-1 that had no flash. It was found to consist of a late series body, fitted with an early top. In creating a 'bitsa' the previous owner had forgotten to hard wire the PC socket.5. From : rick (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 11:28 AM Tuesday 12 September, 2006
The wiring connections to the shoe and (especially) the PC socket in the AE1 are not super robust, you might have just had a wire come loose. In the AE1 the wire goes to the hot shoe first and then there's just a jumper wire to the PC ... kind of the opposite of most cameras ... so it's possible to have the PC go dead while the hot shoe still works.6. From : Ken Durling (kdurling@comcast.net)
Url : http://
Date : 07:18 AM Tuesday 12 September, 2006
Richard -
Are you using a flash that has a PC connection? It might be helpful to determine if the problem is at the hotshoe or the PC socket.
Ken7. From : Richard (richiek67@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 09:39 PM Monday 11 September, 2006
Hi ,
I have a cannon AE-1 and works perfectly except for one thing. The flash on the flash gun fails to go off when using it. The Gun is fine, I think the trigger mechanism internally in the camera has failed. Would this be worth fixing? Has anyone else had the same experience? Any ideas? Thanks.
Cheers
Rich8. From : Luigi D. Sandon (cp@sandon.it)
Url : http://
Date : 05:27 PM Sunday 10 September, 2006
Gordon: Canon made a high-quality 1.2x converter to be used with FD telephoto lens on EF mount cameras. But nowadays it is very difficult to find one. There are some non Canon made adapters on the market, but their quality is not at the same level. Remember you will lose any automatism, only manual stop-down will work.9. From : Gordon (grrflash@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 12:23 PM Sunday 10 September, 2006
I have a new Canon 30D digital camera...and I have an old (but great) Canon FD 400 mm 1.28 lens. Does Canon or anyone else make a converter to use my old lens with my new digital??
Thanks10. From : rick (rick_oleson@yahoo.com)PAGE | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 57 | 58 | 59 | 60 | 61 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 | 70 | 71 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 75 | 76 | 77 | 78 | 79 | 80 | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 | 87 | 88 | 89 | 90 | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 96 | 97 | 98 | 99 | 100 | 101 | 102 | 103 | 104 | 105 | 106 | 107 | 108 | 109 | 110 | 111 | 112 | 113 | 114 | 115 | 116 | 117 | 118 | 119 | 120 | 121 | 122 | 123 | 124 | 125 | 126 | 127 | 128 | 129 | 130 | 131 | 132 | 133 | 134 | 135 | 136 | 137 | 138 | 139 | 140 | 141 | 142 | 143 | 144 | 145 | 146 | 147 | 148 | 149 | 150 | 151 | 152 | 153 | 154 | 155 | 156 | 157 | 158 | 159 | 160 | 161 | 162 | 163 | 164 | 165 | 166 | 167 | 168 | 169 | 170 | 171 | 172 | 173 | 174 | 175 | 176 | 177 | 178 | 179 | 180 | 181 | 182 | 183 | 184 | 185 | 186 | 187 | 188 | 189 | 190 | 191 | 192 | 193 | 194 | 195 | 196 | 197 | 198 | 199 | 200 | 201 | 202 | 203 | 204 | 205 | 206 | 207 | 208 | 209 | 210 | 211 | 212 | 213 | 214 | 215 | 216
Url : http://rick_oleson.tripod.com
Date : 01:11 AM Wednesday 06 September, 2006
Hi Ben:
Remember that in the EM, the meter will not come on until the film has been advanced to Frame 1. This is an unusual feature and often catches people even when they have had the camera for some time.
Maintainers for Various Optic Message Board:
Rick Oleson (rick_oleson@yahoo.com); Greg Chappell (gregmchappell@nww.net), Luigi D. Sandon (cp@sandon.it); Ken Durling (kdurling@kendurling.net); Robert Glenn Middleton (the_redd_groyne@hotmail.co.uk)
In memory of Mr. Ken Durling (1951-2007)
who had served this board for the last 8-10 years with al his love and passion on photography.| Post a Message to the Message Board |
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