The Canon T-90 was the last model that uses FD-mount prior to the shift to the autofocus EF EOS system. It hardly lasted a year since its inception but what an impact it has created on the design of future SLR. Every inch a classic, despite after more than 15 years, this camera is still hard to replicate even by today's standard. It was also widely acclaimed as one of the true Classic camera of modern times. Here comes a common Message Board designed specifically for Canon T90 SLR model - this is especially useful when you realize ALL Canon FD mount SLRs have long been discontinued you may require a public forum for common support and sharing mutual knowledge or experience among many of you. This Site has proved to be quite popular and I am quite happy to see these effort was not wasted and special thanks to ALL the volunteered Site Maintainers of this Message Board. Enjoy.

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1. From : Ron Leachman (rleachman@onstar.com)
Url : http://
Date : 09:00 AM Thursday 28 March, 2002

Do the older FD lens( with the rotating ring to mount to the camera) work with the T90? They seem to have a spot on the f stop ring to go past f22 to another A stop.

Thanks
Ron

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2. From : Irwin Schmendrick (bzoo@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 01:50 PM Wednesday 27 March, 2002

Thanks Mark, two is twice as much fun as one,because I am thinking both can't go kaput on me at once.Always carry a spare fastloader wioth rounds for the pistol issued to members of our JDL Neighborhood Security teams in Crown Heights. . Ah that was then, now I just shoot with a camera( (I am spoofing you of course. I burned the draft card or was it my DAFT card long ago).... Say Joe, when I got my second T90 last month it had no eyecup,they almost never do you know. So I used an EOS 1N eyecup I got off of Canon Service Center, the girl at the counter likes me I think and I give her my best toothy smile. But I am sure it will fit yours too. The cup not the girl or the smile buddy,, It doesnt quite clear the lever on the back so expect to have to push it down past the lever. And that means the shutter lever is sort of hard to use..but it sounds worse than it is. Meaning I actually think the EOS design of the soft eyepiece is nicer for shutting out light than the original eyepiece. No fooling. Some folks say its possible to carve out the EOS 1N to clear the shutter, but noone I know has actually bothered to do this. You could wait forever to win an auction on an original eyepiece (which it is said slid off all too easy) or bid on an original dioptr for the T90,which is your basic eyepiece with a sliver of glass. That is what I use on one of mine, but the EOS is at leasst as useful and still in production. Try it, maybe twenty bucks tops.. I kind of doubt that the EOS 3 or Elan models will fit, anybody know. Canon has more accessories than Carter pills you know. Yours as always, Irwin Schmendrick, House of Irwin, Purveyor of Kosher Delicacies and Passover yummies, Be well, take the Cannolli, and leave the gun...

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3. From : joe (mrchef@tpg.com.au)
Url : http://
Date : 01:24 PM Wednesday 27 March, 2002

I have been looking for the rubber eye cup for my T90 for 6 months now after I misplaced the original one. As this is a discontinued model, non of the dealers have it. Can an EOS ones fit my T90? Which EOS model rubber eye cup is the closest to the original T90 ones that will fit properly.
Thanks for any help I can get.

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4. From : mark (bowdenm@lycos.com)
Url : http://
Date : 10:54 PM Tuesday 26 March, 2002

Hello Irwin. Just saw your message about your 2nd T90 and I offer congrats. It is great to see so many devoted fans of such a great camera. Have gotten too many lens since Canonitis bit me and had to sell a few. Got my first Strobe light and now have to buy a meter. Wish you good luck with your shooting. Mark

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5. From : Don Clary (donaldaclary@cyberhotline.com)
Url : http://
Date : 05:19 AM Tuesday 26 March, 2002

O. Haber - This is a very common problem with T90s that have not been used for some time. The permanent shutter magnets stick if the shutter has not been fired fairly recently. T90s need to be exercised often (like once a month) to prevent this from happening. If you research back pages of this messageboard, you will find this discussed many times. You can try pushing the depth of field preview button many times or giving a sharp of the camera body on some surface (wood?). But probably it will have to be cleaned by a Canon repairman, with cost in the $90-$150 range. I can recommend one in Reno, Nevada, U.S. I don't know where you are located.

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6. From : O. Haber (biker1@walla.co.il)
Url : http://
Date : 04:43 AM Tuesday 26 March, 2002

I have just taken my T90 after a few years of not using it. I have put in new baterries, but the camera isn't shooting. The camera rolled the film in place, but when pressing, the shutter isn't working, just getting a small arrow blinking on the LCD.
Any idea what is happening? What should I do?
Thanks

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7. From : Lionel (african61@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 08:49 PM Saturday 23 March, 2002

Hi ALL
I always check and follow these messages etc,i own a T90 for 7 yrs now,have most accessories and i can always find more.So if you look for and eyecup or something email me and i bet you it will be far less then most countries what ever they charge,not wanting to make a profit.I just love the t90 and would like to help.and sometimes a few cheap couple of t90 come my way too.so always email me when ever you never know what i might find for you.
Keep on shooting.ps what does the 90 stands for in t-90??last 90yrs who knows??

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8. From : Richard Bowsher (rfbowsher@freeuk.com)
Url : http://
Date : 04:27 PM Thursday 21 March, 2002

Hi All

Sorry for posting my lens query in the wrong forum....I'll repost in the FD pages.

Richard

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9. From : Erasmus B.Black (afrocanqueen@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 08:54 AM Thursday 21 March, 2002

Richard, your post would do better in the FD lens pages!. Yet, if you want to be scientific, you must eliminate the camera from the calculation, by trying the lens on another FD model. Once that is done with, you can test the lens by photographing something under controlled lighting as a flat copy subject. If its sharp, its sharp, you use slide film and examine the test targe with a fine loupe. The vignetting doesnt make any sense. These lenses just dont vignette unless the iris blades have gone whacky. At the smallest aperture, there will be some noticable diffraction and that is possibly what you think you see. I think any competent fellow FD photographer could answer these questions in five minutes if he or she had the lens to play with. And also, do your tests on Velvia or Provia slide film. That lens is legendary. Should be as sharp as a saber tooth tiger's molars. Get with someone who can help you out in person. Your most obedient and humble servant, E.B. Black, consort and personal photographer to her grace, the african queen, deposed monarch of Mauritius.

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10. From : Richard (rfbowsher@freeuk.com)
Url : http://
Date : 04:49 PM Tuesday 19 March, 2002

Hi All

I have made extensive use of an FD200mm macro over the years. The lens handles superbly, focuses to 1:1, has a tripod collar etc....it's excellent except I don't get pin sharp images. I'm very careful with my technique - tripod, cable release etc - but still I'm disappointed. May be I'm suffering from mirror bounce? In addition when stopped down (F16-32) there is obvious vignetting in the corners. I'd be very interested to hear if others have noticed the same problems. Should I get the lens serviced or are these just characteristics of this particular model.

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