The Canon T-90 was the last model that uses FD-mount prior to the shift to the autofocus EF EOS system. It hardly lasted a year since its inception but what an impact it has created on the design of future SLR. Every inch a classic, despite after more than 15 years, this camera is still hard to replicate even by today's standard. It was also widely acclaimed as one of the true Classic camera of modern times. Here comes a common Message Board designed specifically for Canon T90 SLR model - this is especially useful when you realize ALL Canon FD mount SLRs have long been discontinued you may require a public forum for common support and sharing mutual knowledge or experience among many of you. This Site has proved to be quite popular and I am quite happy to see these effort was not wasted and special thanks to ALL the volunteered Site Maintainers of this Message Board. Enjoy.

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1. From : Luigi D. Sandon (cp@sandon.it)
Url : http://
Date : 08:14 PM Sunday 02 September, 2007

Tom: this is just a free forum, and people here answer when they can or want. There are always professional repair services if you need a fast answer.

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2. From : Tom C (op_anadyr@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 08:31 PM Saturday 01 September, 2007

It's been 2 days, and still no help?
The problem showed up as soon as I plugged in a cable release. I think the camera was on, and the cable release was locked open, for bulb exposures. Could that have something to do with it? The release is the proper 60-T3, and it works perfectly on my T-70.
Once again, the light that illuminates the external LCD sometimes weakly flashes on and off regardless of whether the camera itself is switched on or off.

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3. From : Tom C (op_anadyr@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 09:19 AM Wednesday 29 August, 2007

Iacob, this site here: http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze2gkrc/photo_gizmos.html
Gives a detailed account on how to remove the front plate in the Leader-Out modificated section, half way down. Handy hint, don't unscrew the two screws on the side all the way. The spring makes the button and slider spring out, and it's the hardest thing ever to find them again.

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4. From : Tom Caddaye (op_anadyr@hotmail.com)
Url : http://
Date : 08:28 PM Tuesday 28 August, 2007

I recently bought a T-90 from Keh, and it worked fine. But now, a month later, I just picked up the camera and it simply just did not work. No help or EEE message, just a blank LCD and viewfinder. I double checked on the little side control panel that it wasn't set to 'dark.' I replaced the batteries, and still nothing.
Actually, the light the illuminates the LCD flickers on and off, regardless of whether the actual camera is switched on or off.

What is going on? This is an awesome camera, and it came with a PC socket inbuilt, so I don't want to have to replace it.
I have no idea whats going on.

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5. From : Iacob Laurentiu (isographer@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 07:39 PM Tuesday 28 August, 2007

Hello,

I am a Canon T90 user (I have bought mine in April this year and I like it a lot).
However, my T90 has a small problem: The lens mount of the camera has a bit of play - the silver ring ( the actual mount) slides in all directions inside the case of the camera. - the movement is only lateral and up&down not in or out, so the focal plane remains the same.
This has been an annoyance until now, as I used only a Canon FD 28 f/2.8 lens, a Canon 50mm f/1.4 lens and a Sigma FD 28-70 f/3.5-4.5 lens ( small size lens).
But a few days ago I've put a telephoto lens on the camera ( 300mm f/4.5 ) and the movement becomes VERY annoying . Also with lens such as 70-200 f/4 or similar this is very unpleasant.

So - can someone provide me with help on removing the front plate of the camera body, and tightening the lens mount ?

First of all: Is it posible to tighten the mount ? Or if the lose play appeared it means that the mount has worn of and there is on provision made to allow the mount to be tighten back ?

I've try to do that myself,... i've unscrewed the top screw (near the red dot under the T90 logo ), and the two bottom ones ( under the lens mount ) but the frond plate didn't came out. What other screws are there ?

I want the repair to be as easy as possible.. and I want to take apart as few parts as possible.


Thanks in advance.

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6. From : Robert Glenn Middleton (the_redd_groyne@hotmail.co.uk)
Url : http://
Date : 10:23 AM Tuesday 28 August, 2007

Mike,

Beware of any quick fixes on a T90 shutter that needs a service, the $100 is for work on an otherwise undamaged unit. Once the shutter has become damaged, due to lack proper attention, the camera will in all probability need a new shutter unit and these are not exactly a common item these days.

Like all mass produced goods, I am sure there could have been a few 'duds' that escaped the quality checks. However; I very much doubt that corrosion would have played a part in causing the problem. I would expect the same to hold for the NOS eBay item, if it was in the original box/wrapping and had been stored properly.

Non of the faulty T90s I have purchased in recent years was showing any sign of contact corrosion. Plenty of wear and tear and signs of heavy handed bodging, but nothing else that a proper service did not put right.

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7. From : mike v (anythingon2wheels@yahoo.com)
Url : http://
Date : 12:45 PM Monday 27 August, 2007

I'd like to go on the record & say the EEEE problem that seems to plague these lovely Cams "IS NOT" due to any carbon build-up on the magnets. I have read too many instances of units displaying this problem "Brand New" just out of the box in the store. One unit believe it or not sold just this year "New Old Stock" with the same issue on Ebay & went for a fairly high price. I am convinced that the real foundation to this malfunction is the connection to the shutter mechanism. I have read where the owners either couldn't, due to inexperience or not having the proper tools for the job, remove the magnet assy/shutter mech. but disconnected & cleaned the contacts and the problem was gone. This sounds more feasable as it doesn't take much resistance to disrupt the flow of current with very small voltage levels. I purchased a very nice spare T90 just for this reason & hopefully sometime in the near future I plan on some surgery to determine if this is indeed the case. I was able to download the service manual for free so I think it'll be that much easier. I'll keep everyone post on my findings. The fact that there are so many shops willing to do this repair @ a cost of roughly $100 US. makes me think there's much less to this problem than meets the eye.

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8. From : Mickey Oberman (mickeyobe@rogers.com)
Url : http://
Date : 01:24 AM Tuesday 14 August, 2007

Mark,

Another device that is frequently used to balance the lighting is a reflector or reflectors.
They are almost always used on professional film and TV shoots.
They are simple and can be anything from a handkerchief to a piece of foil or cardboard to a light coloured wall. They may also be tinted to alter or enhance the colour of your subject.

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9. From : Luigi D. Sandon (cp@sandon.it)
Url : http://
Date : 11:13 PM Monday 13 August, 2007

Mark: metering properly could be tricky if a subject has very different light levels, has Mickey said. Some advices:
1) Select the proper metering mode on the T90. Spot metering is very powerful (especially multimetering), but requires experience to be used effectively - until you master it you can be disappointed.
2) You have to evaluate when a subject can't fit the film latitude. Reversal film have a narrower latitude than negative films. With the former is usually better to expose for the highlights and have darker shadows, unless the highlights are small and unimportant, because washed-out highlight are usually worse to see than dark shadows - but you have to judge depending on the subject.
3) If the subject is close enough, fill-in flash may help.
4) Graduated ND filters are very useful sometimes.

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10. From : Mickey Oberman (mickeyobe@rogers.com)
Url : http://
Date : 05:17 PM Monday 13 August, 2007

Mark,

Film can only properly expose a limited range of lighting - its latitude. If you meter on a dark area and bright areas are beyond the latitude of the film then the bright areas will be washed out. Conversely, If you meter on a bright area the dark areas will be too dense.
You Might try taking readings from both light and dark sections and then set the camera for an average between the two. Niether area will be exposed exactly spot on but could very well be acceptable.

Mickey

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